PAST AND FUTURE: A latest coffee-table book chronicles Raf Simons’ three-year tenure at Dior, when his creations fused the French fashion house’s heritage together with his streamlined cuts and taste for adventurous materials.

The 344-page tome, published by Assouline, is the sixth volume within the series that Dior is releasing chronicling each creative director of the brand. Its cover encompasses a lipstick red coat, inspired by Dior’s signature Bar jacket, from Simons‘ fall 2012 high fashion collection, described by WWD as “one of the highly anticipated designer debuts ever.”

Written by fashion journalist Tim Blanks, the tome features photographs by Laziz Hamani alongside images by the likes of Tim Walker, Paolo Roversi, Peter Lindbergh, Willy Vanderperre and Sarah Moon.

The introduction describes the Belgian designer’s upbringing within the small town of Neerpelt where he was starved of distractions, apart from a record store that proved instrumental find kindred spirits. Television provided a gateway to fashion through programs like CNN’s “Style With Elsa Klensch.”

Simons moved to Genk and obtained a level in industrial and furniture design in 1991. Drawn to the energy of the Antwerp Six, who put Belgium on the international fashion map, he interned for Walter Van Beirendonck, who took him to Paris, where Simons had his fashion epiphany at a Martin Margiela show.

His eponymous label, launched in 1995 and shuttered last 12 months, turned him right into a cult designer in menswear, with creations that melded symbols of counterculture with reinterpretations of uniforms. Pieces from Simons’ early years often fetch high prices on resale sites and through auctions.

From 1997 onward, his shows in Paris caused a sensation together with his skinny tailoring, street casting and imposing runway venues akin to La Grande Arche de la Défense.

The designer made his womenswear debut at Jil Sander, where he was artistic director from 2005 to 2012. During his tenure, he presented a trilogy of collections inspired by the codes of high fashion.

A darling of critics and editors, prized for his exacting silhouettes and obsession with the here-and-now, Simons succeeded John Galliano at Dior after the British designer’s antisemitic comments and subsequent downfall. Simons brought a gust of modernity to the home, sweeping aside the retro-tinged glamour Galliano had plied over a stellar 15-year tenure.

He incessantly referenced iconic designs just like the Bar jacket, in addition to floral motifs — but abstracted them and indulged his predilection for minimalism and futurism. “I’m not romantic concerning the past, I’m romantic concerning the future,” he once said.

Simons also cultivated references to the passions he shared with founder Christian Dior, including nature and gardens, in addition to design and art. His collections for the home referenced artists including Andy Warhol and Sterling Ruby, translating the latter’s spray-painted canvases into duchess satin dresses.

His decision to depart the brand sent shockwaves through the industry, suggesting that designers of Simons’ generation weren’t willing to bend unthinkingly to the demands — and constraints — of mammoth global brands.

“I’m questioning lots,” Simons said just before his last Dior show, referring to the palpable sense that the pace of fashion and the overheated runway system had reached a volatile tipping point. “I feel loads of persons are questioning. Now we have loads of conversation about it: Where is it going? It’s not only the garments. It’s the garments, it’s the whole lot, the Web.”

Following a three-year tenure at Calvin Klein, Simons was named co-creative director of Prada, where he has worked in partnership with Miuccia Prada since 2020. “Dior Raf Simons 2012-2015,” available in English or French, can be released worldwide on May 23. It retails for 195 euros, or $195. — JOELLE DIDERICH

CROCODILE TAILS, AND HEADS: The coin tosses ahead of every of the 900 matches at Roland-Garros will mean lots to Lacoste, a sponsor of the famous French tennis tournament since 1971.

As a part of its ninetieth anniversary festivities in 2023, Lacoste teamed up with La Monnaie de Paris to mint collector coins, one shaped like a tennis racket and one other just like the famous crocodile logo on the chest of all its famous polos.

On Monday morning, small groups were ushered into La Monnaie’s production rooms to see a workman stamp one among the silver coins, which depict Lacoste founder René Lacoste mid-swing one one side.

La Monnaie chief executive officer Marc Schwartz unveiled the coins, noting that annually the mint collaborates with a brand to rejoice French excellence. He extolled the precision with which Lacoste manufactures its signature cotton piqué polo shirts at its factory in Troyes.

The coins incorporate several textures: crocodile skin, cotton piqué, tennis-racket strings and likewise the dimpled surface of a golf ball, a tribute to Lacoste’s wife, the golf champion Simone Thion de La Chaume.

In an interview, Catherine Spindler, deputy CEO of Lacoste, said know-how is “definitely a part of the strategy of what I need to speak. Now we have a really specific savoir faire and it’s something I wish to say just a little bit more, and let people discover.”

The special Lacoste coins have a face value that makes them legal tender in France; nevertheless, they’re designed to appeal to collectors.

Values for the limited-edition pieces start at 92 euros for a 10-euro racket-shaped coin to three,090 euros for a 200-euro gold one. The pièce de résistance is a one-kilogram gold crocodile-shaped coin with a face value of 5,000 euros, depicting the reptile with a tennis ball caught in its teeth. Only 12 can be produced, the value disclosed upon request.

To make certain, Lacoste has specialized fan communities everywhere in the world, including in Korea, Brazil, France, Japan and America, where the brand is planning some activities across the U.S. Open this fall, Spindler noted.

Roland-Garros kicks off on May 22 in Paris and runs through June 11. The coin toss is used to make your mind up who serves and who receives, or the side of the court on which the victor of the toss wishes to play.

Lately, La Monnaie de Paris has minted special coins with the likes of Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Baccarat and Cartier. — MILES SOCHA

SUMMER LOOK: Toteme, the nine-year-old Swedish contemporary fashion brand, is launching a travel-focused capsule collection Tuesday with luxury e-tailer Mytheresa.

The 26-piece capsule in deep navy and optic white includes ready-to-wear sets in crisp cotton poplin and jacquard stripes, graphic skirts and dresses, monogram trousers, and a number of summer-ready shoes and accessories.

Elin Kling, cofounder of Toteme, said this annual travel collection, exclusive to Mytheresa, represents “a distilled version of our high summer look with pieces which might be perfect for relieving into vacation, from light summer jerseys, crisp cotton poplin and crochet cover-ups to sartorial swimwear.”

Tiffany Hsu, vp of womenswear and kidswear fashion buying at Mytheresa, said the capsule showcases the brand’s aesthetic of “modern minimalism and effortless elegance.”

“The gathering features versatile pieces which might be perfect for travel. Our customers will love the broderie anglaise dress and standout accessories just like the travel tote and leather crochet heels that can add ending touches to any summer look,” Hsu added.

Mytheresa is one among the few online luxury players that got here out stronger from the pandemic, due to its long list of exclusive capsule collection partnerships with brands like Prada, Etro, Nensi Dojaka, Giambattista Valli, and now Toteme, to draw big spenders.

Earlier this 12 months, Mytheresa chief executive officer Michael Kliger had said that growth was slowing overall because “aspirational” shoppers were putting the stops on spending amid the economic turbulence. Against this, the highest 3 percent of consumers, which account for nearly 40 percent of Mytheresa’s sales, proceed to spend.

That elite group of consumers grew by 28 percent within the quarter, based on Mytheresa. The location continues to cater to them with “high-impact” events, brand activations, and “money can’t buy” experiences in Europe, the Middle East, and the U.S.

Since receiving investment from the Swedish investment fund Altor in 2021, the brand has launched into a gentle global retail rollout, expanding into China, South Korea and the U.S. Last summer, the brand launched its first U.S. store in Manhattan’s SoHo neighborhood. — TIANWEI ZHANG

SPECIAL SHOP: Guests of The Peninsula Beverly Hills hotel can now purchase rare and in-demand fashion finds on-site — primarily latest and vintage luxury handbags curated by personal shopper Gab Waller.

Via a partnership with online consignment shop Fashionphile, a number of 10 items can be on display and available in any respect times.   

“As items do sell, I’ll replenish it because the partnership is from mid-May to the top of July,” said Waller, who’s originally from Australia and is now based in Los Angeles.

“For me, I’m really specializing in pieces that very much represent exactly what my brand is about, which is hard-to-find, sold-out pieces,” she said.

Priced between $1,500 and $10,000, brands showcased include Chanel, Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Dior and Valentino. Hotel guests may have direct access to Waller during their stay. And purchases are in a position to be made directly via QR codes on the hotel and the Fashionphile website.

“We’re at all times taking a look at unique ways to partner with either art, fashion, beauty, since it really speaks to our guests,” said hotel manager Rebecca Goldberg. “And so, Gab Waller felt like a very good fit. We share loads of the identical audience.…It’s type of an extension of concierge. ‘What else can I get access to only by means of staying here?’”

“People love buying something that they found on an occasion that they didn’t expect.…Persons are coming from, whether it’s the U.S., Texas, Santa Barbara, Latest York, or Europe, Middle East, so over and over after I meet women who’re staying here, I say ‘What are your plans?’ They usually’re like, ‘Well, we got here here to buy.’ Our guests are asking for it. So, if we can provide them the chance to do this inside the hotel, I believe it just makes it so far more meaningful,” Goldberg said.

The Peninsula Beverly Hills hotel is working on offering more curated and unexpected guest experiences.

“Right away, we’re taking a look at transforming our mini bars into beauty bars,” said Goldberg. — RYMA CHIKHOUNE

OUT EAST: La Vie Style House, a Dallas-based company founded by Dallas native Lindsey McClain and L.A. native Jamie Coulter, known for its luxury caftans and wraps, has arrange shop in Southampton, Latest York.

The partners have opened a 600-square-foot store at 42 Jobs Lane, joining its other two stores in Dallas’ Highland Park Village and Palm Beach, Florida. The corporate has also had pop-up locations in Aspen, Colorado, and Houston.

The shop, which is a everlasting location, took over the space formerly occupied by Frances Valentine, across the road from Ralph Lauren. The corporate is planning additional locations later this 12 months.

Along with its one-size-fits-all caftans and wraps, the shop features shirts, foundations, accessories, coatdresses and shirtdresses. Handmade within the U.S., the gathering takes inspiration from vintage clothing. Along with resortwear, La Vie Style House offers styles suitable for seasonal parties and bridal events.

Retail prices for the caftans and wraps range from $550 for a brief cotton caftan to $850 for one with sequins, to full-length wraps in metallic brocade for $950. Foundations, tops, bottoms and dresses retail from $100 to $850.

La Vie Style House wholesales its collection at stores akin to Saks Fifth Avenue, MatchesFashion, Nordstrom and specialty stores.

“Greater than just clothing, our line represents a way of life that’s laid back, yet fashionable,” said McClain. “Dress them up for night, wear them casual for day — it’s all about your individual style.”

“That is essentially the most ideal spot for La Vie. Nobody does it higher than the women within the Hamptons,” added Coulter.

The shop is designed in tonal shades of white. Along with the La Vie line, the shop features original works by artist Donald Robertson, known to his following on Instagram as @drawbertson, on the market. — LISA LOCKWOOD