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6 Oct

Retailers’ Paris Trends: Sheer, Shine, Glam — and Numerous Y2K

PARIS — The return to a full-fledged, in-person and packed Paris Fashion Week calendar left buyers enthused with the energy of town (despite the traffic) and the newfound creativity of designers.

The continued strength of Y2K was notable, while denim remained key with low-rise cuts and coordinating tops and bottoms having a significant moment. Slinky column dresses and lingerie-inspired pieces equivalent to those at Saint Laurent and Victoria Beckham were cited as major silhouettes this season, though tailoring and understated elegance made its mark in collections from The Row and Stella McCartney.

“We were witness to a dressed-up, elevated, chic and complicated aesthetic that dominated the collections. There was an overall feeling of positivity and optimism throughout the week,” said Simon Longland, head of menswear and womenswear at Harrods.

An all-black palette for summer stood out, with pops of brights and neon as colours still on trend, while embellishment for day, including the resurgence of sequins, added an air of celebratory fun. The pendulum swung from heavy leather to sheer fabrics, with many looks revealing acres of skin.

Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe collection was singled out for his creative use of a floral theme and playful twist on proportion — all while still being wearable. “They’re at all times the proper mix of conceptual meets commerce,” said Lily Page, market director at Net-a-porter. His supersized sweatshirts, shrunken bombers and balloon shoes were cited as must-haves.

Dries Van Noten also registered for its use of sculptural volume, colorblocking and unexpected floral mixes. Other standouts were Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent collection, with its column dresses and oversize coats, while Chitose Abe’s Sacai was well-received for its pleating detail and bombers.

Ludovic de Saint Sernin stood out amongst emerging talent along with his latest gender-fluid collection, and Kevin Germanier also caught buyers’ attention despite Ye, the rapper formerly generally known as Kanye West, staging a surprise show in the identical time slot that hogged headlines with negative buzz.

Probably the most mentioned collections of the week was Demna’s Balenciaga for all the things from its unique invitation to its muddy pit set. But by far Coperni caused the best stir with Bella Hadid’s spray-on dress, an immediately iconic moment that generated $26.3 million in media impact value. Nearly every buyer mentioned it as their best show format of the week, but it surely led to a little bit of soul-searching for some who questioned how the hunt for viral moments impacts the industry.

“Overall, the impression was that designers were more concerned with the communication and digital aspect of their shows, while creativity was in some cases sidelined,” said Frederica Montelli, head of fashion at Italy’s Rinascente.

While influencers remain a force, the ability of classic celebrity saw a resurgence this season, with the presence of packed front rows and large star turns equivalent to Cher closing the Balmain show.

“From star-studded catwalks to front rows more so than usual, Paris was full of celebrity-driven shows,” said Elizabeth and Dominick Lepore, owners of Jimmy’s NYC. “Truly the largest impression that went viral almost instantaneously — if not live — was Bella Hadid having a dress be spray painted onto her body. Remarkable to look at and has us questioning where does fashion go from here?”

Here, buyers’ views on the Paris collections.

Coperni RTW Spring 2023

Aitor Rosas Sune/WWD

Beth Buccini, founder and owner, Kirna Zabête

Favorite collection(s): Sacai, Saint Laurent, Victoria Beckham, Dries Van Noten, Loewe and Valentino.

Best show format: It was super exciting to have each Victoria Beckham and Zimmermann show for the primary time in Paris. Victoria Beckham’s show at an old military hospital with “Madame Butterfly” music paired with techno was beautiful. Zimmermann’s location amongst a garden built on the Petit Palais filled with noises of chirping birds was magical. Mostly I used to be happy with these amazing women who were each in a position to fulfill lifetime dreams this season. I at all times love a presentation and Johanna Ortiz’s Latin spirit in Paris was refreshing, joyful and fun.

Top trends: Pleating, fringe, deconstructed tailoring, strong shirting, jersey, fashion-y denim, Y2K, low-rise pants. Sheer fabrics, cutouts and feathers proceed. Lavender and pale yellow are in all places.

Must-have item(s): A Loewe anthurium dress, a Sacai trench, a Saint Laurent jersey dress and Miu Miu thong sandals.

Budgets up or down: Budgets are up, as business is powerful and we may have two recent doors on Madison Avenue and in Nashville, Tennessee, opening for this season.

Impressions of the week: It has felt like a pivotal point for a lot of upcoming brands like Coperni. For popular culture, the celeb overload on the runway with Kanye in Balenciaga and Cher in Balmain gives Paris and the industry some great buzz. The shows usually were filled with probably the most variety of exits I’ve ever seen. We’ve got a giant call out for event dressing, so we’re searching for that. The strong tailoring we’ve seen looks really fresh, and I believe it’ll perform well.

Brigitte Chartrand, vp of womenswear buying, Ssense

Favorite collections: Comme des Garçons, The Row, Rick Owens, Dries Van Noten and Junya Watanabe.

Top trends: Leather, tailoring, denim and bridal.

Must-have item: The Row’s cape blazer with tied sleeves; The Row’s canvas and suede low-top sneaker and the integrated mesh stocking flats; Rick Owens ivory bomber; Dries Van Noten floral denim.

Recent talent: Yang Li at Shang Xia.

Jessica Crawley, divisional merchandise manager, Ounass (Al Tayer Group)

Favorite collection(s): Valentino, Saint Laurent, Zimmermann, Mônot, Coperni and Courrèges.

Top trends: Oversize and slouchy tailoring, a lot of denim, cargo pants, high slits, asymmetric hemlines, and continuing from last season, sheer fabrics and cutouts.

Must-have item(s): Anything and all the things denim. Denim was everywhere in the runways with Stella McCartney, Courrèges, Alessandra Wealthy and A.W.A.K.E. Mode doing it best. And for eveningwear, something sheer. We loved all of the sheer gowns this season, which we saw from Valentino, Saint Laurent, Monot and Alessandra Wealthy.

Impressions of the week: From the style shows to the showrooms, it was nothing but good vibes.

Victoria Dartigues, merchandising director fashion & accessories, La Samaritaine

Favorite collection(s): Victoria Beckham, Dries Van Noten, Valentino, Loewe, Sacai and Isabel Marant.

Top trends: Sheer silhouettes, many superpositions but at all times, the skin is visible. Empowered women but super sensual: many pastel shades, bare shoulders, open-back tailored jackets, sheer pants. Elegant but sexy.

Must-have item(s): Sheer pant or lace legging from Victoria Beckham combined along with her silky fluid dress. Cargo pant from Isabel Marant mixed with crochet swimwear. Extravagant balloon shoes from Loewe.

Recent talent: Ester Manas, Botter and Ludovic de Saint Sernin.

Impressions of the week: It has been a really dynamic week in Paris with a schedule full of recent names and young designers who deserve their presence on the calendar. Sensuality and a marriage atmosphere dominated the mood: almost at all times a white search for the finale of the shows, lingerie and sheer on repeat. It’s also the tip of virtual showrooms and presentations.

Ludovic de Saint Sernin RTW Spring 2023

Ludovic de Saint Sernin RTW Spring 2023

Dominique Maitre/WWD

Jennifer Cuvillier, fashion director, Le Bon Marché

Favorite collection(s): Dior, Stella McCartney, Dries Van Noten, Chloé, Sacai, Zimmermann, Loewe and Rick Owens.

Best show format: Immersive locations, indoor or outdoor. There have been many more outdoor shows in Paris this time, with beautiful locations linked to the gathering, just like the Petit Palais for Zimmermann, the Opéra Garnier for Thom Browne, in addition to a tremendous decor for Dior.

Top trends: All-black silhouettes; very shiny monochrome, and summer vibrant and fresh prints; sequins; summer leather looks; denim and female dresses.

Impressions of the week: It was very dynamic and artistic with beautiful shows, presentations and showroom presentations. It was a powerful PFW.

Must-have items: We’re buying for all of our womenswear categories — from contemporary to designer, evening, beachwear and resort, in addition to all of the accessories. It’s a very important moment.

Laura Darmon, buyer director and business development, ENG

Favorite collections: Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Didu and Ludovic de Saint Sernin.

Top trends: Oversize shoulders, low-waist pants, long skirts, visible underwear and large belts.

Must-have item(s): Courrèges biker leather jacket attachable on the waist; punk bear Balenciaga bag; Ludovic de Saint Sernin miniskirt.

Budgets up or down: Up. ENG can be expanding [with a] few stores in China this yr.

Recent talent: Didu, who showcased her recent collection in a hybrid presentation format including a runway moment and a live artist performance. The brand is relocating to Paris and her collection “I Can’t Hide My Anger” is a powerful statement displaying smart representation through a large spectrum of ladies of all races and ages.

Rickie De Sole, women’s designer fashion and editorial director, Nordstrom

Favorite collection(s): Chanel, Sacai, Miu Miu, Dries Van Noten and Loewe.

Best show format: Ibrahim Kamara’s debut collection was set against a backdrop of infinite blue that boldly registered the home color while dancers choreographed by Nicolas Huchard flowed through the space, signifying a recent chapter at Off-White.

Top trends: That is the season of the pant. You may find styles with pleats and generous width, streamlined and slinging lower on the waist, flare bottoms, and cargo pants aplenty — they were omnipresent in every city with a bounty of pockets. Embellishment for day at Chanel, Valentino, Sacai, Johanna Ortiz and Stella McCartney. Sequins, beading and complex needlework considered traditionally applicable for evening felt fresh and exciting for daywear. We were delighted by the sheer layers and sculptural elements that were often a companion to embellishment. All the feel on the runways is something we can be leaning into.

Must-have item(s): If there was ever a spot I’d be surprised to see the resurgence of ballet flats, it was the mud pit on the Balenciaga show. However it worked and added much more mortar to the shoe style’s place in the present and upcoming spring season for its simplicity.

Recent talent: LuChen is one to look at with strong tailoring and an impeccable attention to detail.

Impressions of the week:  We welcomed the general ease and thoughtful sensibility of the spring collections, whether it was Chanel’s glamorous twists on silk chiffon and houndstooth tweeds, or all the additional handy cargo pockets and unexpected shirting and separates seen at Sacai and Miu Miu. Dries Van Noten’s good floral pattern clash was a highlight, ushering in an optimistic mood for spring. Jonathan Anderson delivered a powerful collection at Loewe filled with must-have items including shearling bombers, a perky fit-and-flare polo collared minidress and quirky statement shoes.

Sacai RTW Spring 2023

Sacai RTW Spring 2023

Domlnique Maitre / WWD

Linda Fargo, senior vp and director of ladies’s fashion, Bergdorf Goodman

Favorite collection(s): Dries Van Noten, Chanel, Loewe, Schiaparelli, Junya Watanabe, Valentino, Saint Laurent, Dior, Rick Owens and Issey Miyake. The excellent news was that there have been too many standout collections to give you the chance to call a favourite. Quite a few collections were great for very different reasons.

Best show invitation: Balenciaga’s old receipt- and franc-filled lost-and-found wallet.

Best show format: Amongst standout venues and experiences, praise to the dancers at Dior, Off-White and Issey Miyake, who brought home the concentrate on the human body as a place to begin of beauty and identity. Hands-down, though, the venue of the style season was the Mud World at Balenciaga. Full praise to Demna for taking up tough issues, and finding a visually poetic and arresting approach to discuss digging for the reality, back-to-the-earth urges and the cry to be freed from boxes, labels and limiting descriptives.

Top trends: Body-pride inspired dressing, outward undergarments, transparent layers, redefined and liberated tailoring, progressive volumes, plays on scale, un-constructions in all categories, mixed metaphor dressing, beautility, asymmetrical styles, novelty footwear.

Must-have item(s): Besides all body-confidence expressions, lingerie-inspired layering pieces, the slipdress, bra and corset elements, long, clinging sheath dresses, exaggerated cargo details and pants, foldover bags. Essentially the most unforgettable shoe? Loewe’s Minnie Mouse.

Recent talent: We loved the disruptive defiant energy at Vaquera. We plan so as to add quite a few recent brands from our busy but productive time in Paris.

Impressions of the week: Layered onto superlative creativity, messages of identity and the urge to redefine or un-define ourselves and what fashion will be, played out on the runways alongside cultural messaging. Clothing norms are being deconstructed and are re-presenting in exciting recent forms.

April Hennig, senior vp and chief merchandising officer, Moda Operandi

Favorite collection(s): Saint Laurent, The Row, Chloé, Dries Van Noten and Victoria Beckham.

Recent talent: The brand new guard of “Parisian cool” including Courrèges, Ludovic de Saint Sernin and Coperni, injected a youthful and rebellious spirit steeped in cult appeal.

Best show format: Balenciaga’s post-apocalyptic show was an extension of last season: the ice had turned to mud for spring, with models pacing down the wet, soiled runway to highly dramatic effect. Courrèges staged a beachy-cool setting, with an hourglass-like stream of sand pouring down from the ceiling at an accelerating pace as models strolled barefoot with shoes in hand, as if walking home within the early hours after an evening of revelry.

Top trends: We love the concept of “deconstructed grandeur,” where sheer layers (ubiquitous across the collections) reveal corsetry and bustier construction in ways in which feel distinctly modern. One other trend we’re calling “romantic utility” spotlights cargo pockets, reworked denim and jumpsuits of assorted iterations, reborn with imagination and infrequently feminine whimsy.

Must-have item: A simple approach to evening was epitomized by what we’re calling the “ESD” — the straightforward slinky dress — characterised by draped jersey, cowl necklines and puddled trains. We’re also seeing key item skirts especially in extremes of various length, from the long yellow train at Valentino to micro mini cargo skirts at Miu Miu. These hemlines are a revolt of sorts, playing into the ability of unveiling or concealing. Moto jackets offer a “Mad Max” appeal.

Impressions of the week: The Dries Van Noten show delivered infinite joy with overwhelmingly upbeat prints and energy. Stella McCartney’s triumphant messaging, “Change the History,” was fueled by the gathering’s vibrant and completely satisfied colours. In strong opposition were Balenciaga and Miu Miu, who presented a more dystopian mood.

Tiffany Hsu, vp womenswear fashion buying, Mytheresa

Favorite collections: Loewe, Saint Laurent and Balenciaga.

Best show format: Balenciaga’s post-apocalyptic setting was beyond impressive. Saint Laurent’s dreamlike venue oozed Parisian elegance.

Top trends: We saw quite a lot of crop tops, cargo pants and rave influences as a powerful continuation of the Y2K look. Except for that there was also beautiful surrealistic, over-the-top craft on display.

Must-have item(s): The Row‘s sock boot is certainly on my list in addition to Balenciaga‘s arm bag and devil sunglasses and the Saint Laurent maxi coat.

Recent talent: I actually liked Chet Lo’s clingy knit looks with curved cutouts. Rui and Ponte are other names that I’ll keep watch over.

Jodi Kahn, vp of luxury fashion, Neiman Marcus

Favorite collection(s): Dries Van Noten, Loewe, Schiaparelli and Stella McCartney.

Top trends: We saw quite just a few collections with a component of workmanship. Valentino offered many fully embellished looks including beaded tights, footwear and accessories. Dries Van Noten offered embellished details on various fabrications, adding one other dimension to the gathering. One other surprising theme throughout Paris was the quantity of outerwear we saw on the runway. From Saint Laurent models draped in long leather dusters and outerwear, to leather at Akris and Loewe. A little bit of exposed skin, in a complicated, feminine way continues to be a trend and a continuation from this fashion month, in addition to what we’re currently selling. We saw these details for each day and night, in the shape of open backs, bare midriffs and bralettes worn as underpinnings. Women are celebrating their bodies greater than ever.

Best show format: Brands went after an experience this season wanting to interact with the attendees greater than just sending models down the runway. Many brands included a “wow” moment to create buzz and excitement around their shows. It is evident the brands try to make a long-lasting impression on each the attendees and the fans watching from afar.

Laura Larbalestier, fashion director, Harvey Nichols

Favorite collection(s): Dries Van Noten and Loewe.

Best show format: Issey Miyake in total again with a really pure and sweet tribute.

Top trends: Alternative denim, oversize bomber jackets and XL coats and sheer layering.

Must-have item(s): Saint Laurent’s extra-long coat, Dries Van Noten wide-legged trousers.

Budgets up or down: Up, where we consider within the product.

Recent talent: Meryll Rogge, Paula Canova del Vas and Florentina Leitner.

Impressions of the week: Considered one of the highlights of the week was how brands presented themselves in other ways emphasizing their brand message.

Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2023

Saint Laurent RTW Spring 2023

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Elizabeth and Dominick Lepore, owners, Jimmy’s, Recent York

Favorite collection(s): Alexandre Vauthier, Coperni, Louis Vuitton and Victoria Beckham.

Top trends: Freshness with colours, modernism with style and a glamorous departure from loungewear. Reimagining the ’80s, ’90s and Y2K era, what’s old is recent again. In the event you’ve been in business so long as we now have — nearly 75 years — all the things we’re seeing, we’ve sold before and are excited to showcase it to the brand new generation of Jimmy’s customers.

Must-have item(s): Fashionistas will wear or carry something fringe. In the event you’re not wearing it, you’re carrying it. Moreover, the bucket bag has reappeared on the runways for all the “It” girls.

Simon Longland, head of menswear and womenswear, Harrods

Favorite collection(s): Saint Laurent, Loewe, The Row and Valentino.

Best show format: Balenciaga doubtless had probably the most impressive staging of the season, the large mud pit was immense and set the proper stage for the gathering. Rick Owens, staged outside the Palais de Tokyo with an unmatched view of the Eiffel Tower and surrounding an enormous fountain, was also one to recollect.

Top trends: Tailoring was a dominant theme — from formfitting and sculpted to oversize and relaxed, strict clean minimal black to embellished and colourful. Other themes included sleeveless and backless. Truly a season where there’s tailoring for everybody and each occasion. We saw lingerie come through as a key trend this season in every guise, and expect it to be a key trend for our clients next season. Cape details as at Valentino, and hoods on slinky evening pieces equivalent to Saint Laurent. In denim, the preferred iteration got here in washed and faded wide-legged or long floor-length skirts. Rosettes, each appliquéd and embroidered, as at Pimples. Their use of rosettes paired with structured and hard leather pieces was really beautiful and a mode that can be surely filtered through next season. Volume continued to take center stage, particularly in big sleeve silhouettes. From Rick Owens and The Row to Cecilie Bahnsen and Zimmermann — there was volume for everybody.

Nathalie Lucas Verdier, general merchandise director, Printemps

Favorite collection(s): Saint Laurent, Loewe and Miu Miu.

Best show format: This season, brands were competing to create a memorable Instagrammable experience. From Saint Laurent’s uber-Parisian setting, Courrèges’ beautiful sand set to Coperni’s moment with Bella and Balenciaga’s mud field, the competition was fierce.

Top trends: The Y2K trend was not as strong as in Recent York City, London or Milan, where it was outstanding, but there still were some strong hero items of this decade: cargos, anything satin, low waists, corsets and ruffles. Elevated denim was ubiquitous this season in all its versions with adornments, fabric mix or special shapes at Courrèges, Miu Miu, Givenchy and Stella McCartney.

Paris was more about sartorialism, sophistication and dressing up. There have been luxurious embellishments and refined details, and plays on sleeves (extra-long at Loewe and The Row, side-opened at Sacai).

The post-pandemic party trend continues to be super strong. Cocktail, party and eveningwear were in all places and satin is a key material this season. Transparency, lace and glitter were often seen, equivalent to long gowns with trains. And, in fact, sexy is certainly back for real: dresses and skirts were either super short or extra long, worn with very high heels.

Must-have item(s): A cargo was seen in lots of iterations: satin, cropped, denim. Total leather look and particularly a biker jacket from Saint Laurent; a fragile cropped Victorian shirt as seen at Loewe or Givenchy.

Budgets up or down: Finally exceeding 2019 results, we’re confident and planned increased budgets.

Recent talent: Ester Manas confirmed she has a uniqueness of view on inclusivity and delivered a gorgeous optimistic collection. Weinsanto and Vaquera brought an edgy air to Paris Fashion Week.

Impressions of the week: Paris was busy and optimistic despite the recession threat. This week was all about sophistication, elegance and the pleasure to exit and have a good time. Possibly it lacked the appeal of newness and reinvention Milan had this season.

Federica Montelli, head of fashion, Rinascente

Favorite collection(s): Saint Laurent, Loewe, Balenciaga, Dries Van Noten, Miu Miu, Valentino, Pimples Studios, The Row and Vivienne Westwood.

Best show format: I personally loved Loewe’s hyper-real collection. Jonathan Anderson is one among those designers that keeps pushing the boundaries of creativity on all levels. Balenciaga’s mega-production was once more on point, with a powerful “down-to-earth” collection, quite literally.

Top trends: Denim, body-con dresses with a sleek, elongated figure, exposed midriffs and sexy open backs, cutouts and ruching, extra-mini proportions for dresses and skirts and plateau shoes. There was a comeback for leather, in a few of a very powerful shows.

Must-have item(s): Sparkling all the things. From tops to encrusted denim, catsuits and scintillating dresses and capes, we now have seen a steep rise of the paillettes and Swarovski [crystals], confirming a giant momentum for eveningwear.

Budgets up or down: We’re experiencing great retail momentum, which supplies us a positive outlook for spring 2023 that’s translated in our budgets.

Recent talent: Minuit and Germanier are two young designers who we’re watching with interest. We loved Bruno Frisoni’s shoe collection’s second “comeback.”

Impressions of the week: The momentum and the energy of Milan continued in Paris. We’ve got been very energetic within the showrooms securing recent brands and investing in essential themes seen on the runway, like eveningwear. Resort wear was the largest theme on the trade fairs and has been a giant focus of our buys, along with novelty on shoes, bags and jewellery where we’re working on recent retail projects.

Alix Morabito, womenswear and lingerie director, Galeries Lafayette

Favorite collection(s): Saint Laurent, Loewe, Courrèges and Germanier.

Best show format: Coperni’s finale for its technical prowess, and it was also a cultural moment. Balenciaga’s huge mud installation and wet path that gave a sense of day-to-day, a real-life atmosphere to the garments. The mud also had a particular smell that we couldn’t shake off in the subsequent few days, as if Balenciaga was following us throughout fashion week.

Top trends: This season is much more influenced by Y2K — so many cropped tops, transparency, low-rise, bleached effect and denim-on-denim looks, for instance. Plainly quite a lot of brands are aiming their collections on the young celebrity communities using and replicating their codes. The collections feel quite wintry, with a lot of black and leather. We are able to see emerging a recent elegance, which talks more about sensuality than sexiness, barely more “mature,” with some historical references as seen within the sleek eveningwear of Valentino and Lanvin, and with beautiful dresses within the Balenciaga show.

Recent talents: Confirming recent talents just like the very sensual show of Ludovic de Saint Sernin, the ocean-inspired collection of Botter and Germanier’s colourful universe of beads, sequins and bliss. Also interesting designers at Sphere, equivalent to Christopher Rumpf and Ponder.er.

Bosse Myhr, director of womenswear, Selfridges

Favorite collection(s): Undercover, Dries Van Noten, Junya Watanabe and Sacai.

Best show format: Noir by Kei Ninomiya’s show with a wide ranging array of looks.

Top trends: Cropped garments, jackets and a more sophisticated and dressed-up sexy aesthetic goes to be very much present in spring 2023.

Must-have item(s): A Sacai jacket, Undercover slashed sweater and a Coperni dress.

Recent talent: Weinsanto showed a really exciting show at first of fashion week. We loved the energy, styling and number of looks.

Libby Page, market director, Net-a-porter

Favorite collection(s): The Row and Loewe.

Top trends: Nineties grunge as seen on the likes of Sacai, Coperni and Courrèges. Spring jackets — there’s been some incredible styles this season, think the puffer at Balenciaga, the moto at Stella McCartney and Loewe showcased some cropped versions, all of that are strong transitional pieces for the spring season.

Must-have item(s): Valentino’s Perspex logo pumps, Loewe’s mini polo dress.

Impressions of the week: We cannot mention Paris Fashion Week without discussing the abundance of celebrities that were present — the ability and influence of the muse is showing no signs of slowing down, from Cher at Balmain to Kanye West’s opening Balenciaga.

Cher and Olivier Rousteing backstage at Balmain Spring 2023 show

Cher and Olivier Rousteing backstage at Balmain spring 2023 show.

Stephane Feugere/WWD

Roopal Patel, senior vp and fashion director, Saks Fifth Avenue

Favorite collection(s): Loewe, Saint Laurent, Chanel, Dries Van Noten, Sacai, Valentino and Rick Owens.

Best show format: It has been every week of over-the-top productions that felt set for a Hollywood film. I at all times stay up for seeing Saint Laurent, and this season’s show had the excitement of a rock concert set against probably the most chic backdrop in Paris. Demna’s mud pit show for Balenciaga and its message of grounding into the earth has been the talk of the week. Loewe’s show with the anthurium flower as the focus was just divine. Jonathan Anderson left us wanting more of that exotic surrealism.

Top trends: Skin is on this season with a sultry, barely there approach. Minimalist tailoring continues to be outstanding with a powerful concentrate on each boxy and oversize jackets in addition to fluid pants and shirting. We’re seeing lingerie-inspired details in all the things from bustiers to cropped bra tops with a concentrate on the bust. Leather is back with an ’80s inspiration, seen in biker and cropped jacket styles. Other key trends included sheer fabrics with a peekaboo allure, invisible sequins, shine and crystal bling, exotic floral prints, utility and cargo, denim, evening gowns with cutouts that accent the waist, carryall shopper totes, chain bags, platforms and flatforms.

Best recent talent: Ibrahim Kamara for Off-White delivered a moving debut collection in tribute to Virgil Abloh. Ludovic de Saint Sernin celebrated the five-year anniversary of his gender-fluid, cult-favorite line with a ton of buzz. His collection delivered an attractive, cool, luxe lineup for all.

Ida Petersson, buying director, Browns

Favorite collection(s): Loewe. From the waxed jackets to the knitwear and accessories, it was simply divine and Jonathan at his best.

Top trends: Sharp tailoring, long skirts and coats, leather and denim are key materials, with black most definitely being the important thing color. Cargo pants and shorts are in all places, with Y2K influences still going strong on the new-gen brands.

Must-have item(s): The waxed jacket from Loewe, cargo shorts from Givenchy and the teddy bear bag seen at Balenciaga.

Budgets up or down: We’re excited and our buys reflect that; nonetheless, we’re also aware of the worldwide economic climate.

Recent talent: Not quite so recent, but Coperni really stole the week. Hodakova also had a gorgeous first show in Paris; I’m excited to see where Ellen will take her collection.

Impressions of the week: A tale of half and half. It’s very apparent that each one designers are very much influenced by global current events. Some wish to party their way out of it, but it surely’s been an extended time since there was a lot black on the runways for spring.

Arielle Siboni, women’s ready-to-wear fashion director, Bloomingdale’s

Favorite collection(s): Stella McCartney, Valentino, The Row, Lanvin, Saint Laurent, Chloé, Victoria Beckham, Sacai and Rokh.

Top trends: Moto details and leather proceed. Minimalist tailoring, trousers (especially low-rise) and utility-inspired pieces dominated shows. Fringe was in all places, shine and sheer elements proceed as a part of Y2K, capes and hoods began to emerge, as did lingerie-inspired details and lace. Platforms gave the impression to be the shoe of selection this season.

Must-have item(s): Several runways featured crochet tops back to trousers. This styling combination feels fresh and I can’t wait to wear it this spring.

Recent talent: Minuit.

Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew

Favorite collection(s): The Row, Balenciaga, Issey Miyake, Dries Van Noten and Miu Miu.

Best show format: The show installations and setups were on one other level this season. The shows from the epic Balenciaga mud pit, Dior’s fantastical grotto display, to the enormous fibreglass anthurium at Loewe were all incredible to experience and hope for the season ahead.

Top trends: Precision tailoring continues to be a very important trend for the spring season. Deceptive details were in all places, from raw hems to multifunctional closures. Key brand standouts here were at The Row, Lanvin, Akris and Sacai. Couture-inspired workmanship was inspiring, including ornate embroideries and appliqués from Dior, Valentino, Hermès and Loewe. We’re also fascinated by newness in technological fabrications and textiles — much more so with a sustainable edge.

The Y2K trend is here to remain. From sexy crop tops from Alessandra Wealthy to the low-slung hip-huggers at Stella McCartney — this nostalgic trend is pumped up for spring 2023. The Miu Miu effect is in full force and we especially loved the continuation of the micro mini trend. Denim variations were seen everywhere in the runways with an emphasis on relaxed and oversize silhouettes. In fact, we love a Canadian tuxedo moment, seen best on Gigi Hadid at Givenchy.

Must-have item(s): A rubber Rockstud tote bag from Valentino; reconstructed trench dress from Sacai; the cargo short from Givenchy; Comme des Garçons x Salomon sneaker; the elongated leather shirt dress from Loewe; the precision tailored jackets from The Row.

Recent talent: Ibrahim Kamara’s recent image direction for Off-White was a powerful representation for the long run of the label. We’re excited to explore this recent identity.

Impressions of the week: As we end the monthlong fashion journey, Paris delivered the jolt of energy we would have liked to complete an incredibly strong spring 2023 season. We’re invigorated by the worldwide talent of the week.

Liane Wiggins, head of womenswear, Matchesfashion

Favorite collection(s): Loewe, Rick Owens, Junya Watanabe, The Row and Sacai.

Best show format: The Noir Kei Ninomiya show on the Oratoire du Louvre was very special and the multicolor pop seating at Sacai was super uplifting. Zimmermann’s show on the Petit Palais was a grand botanical setting. Issey Miyake paid beautiful tribute to the late designer and the dance element of the show was very memorable and in fact, the mud at Balenciaga.

Top trends: Bomber jackets from Sacai, Noir Kei Ninomiya, A.W.A.K.E., Rick Owens; A-line, trapeze and the brand new jacket sillouettes coming through from the amazing Loewe; Rick Owens’ tulle minidresses and a lot of the outerwear we now have been seeing.

Khaki, brown and nude tones with a pop of chartreuse. Interesting tackle tailoring jackets — tuxedo looks at Victoria Beckham, The Row folded-sleeve jackets and Dries Van Noten’s incredible pleated tailoring. The skirt and shirt combos from Valentino, Sacai, A.W.A.K.E. and Junya Watanabe.

Must-have item(s): Loewe A-line cropped jacket, Junya Watanabe pleated shirts, Loewe bag.

Recent talent: We loved most of the clever recent collaborations, just like the Cecilie Bahnsen recent upcycled trainers with Asics that tapped into the trend of skirts and sneakers that we now have been seeing this season.

Impressions of the week: Many impressive progressive moments from brands equivalent to Loewe, Sacai and Comme des Garçons — overall seeing a real return to designers creating real, wearable but interesting clothes and galvanizing us all with this shift barely into interesting hardworking, effortless clothes with high style and interest.

Victoria Beckham RTW Spring 2023

Victoria Beckham RTW Spring 2023

Giovanni Giannoni / WWD

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