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16 Dec

Saint Laurent and Maison Margiela Return to Paris Men’s

PARIS — All 81 events of the autumn 2023 Paris Men’s Week can be physical, in line with the provisional calendar published Friday by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. 

The menswear collections can be unveiled between Jan. 17 and Jan. 22, with 48 shows and 33 presentations, starting with Wales Bonner’s 5:30 p.m. show on the primary day.  

As previously reported, Saint Laurent will return to Paris with a 9 p.m. show on Jan. 17 for its men’s collection. In recent times, Anthony Vaccarello has shown his menswear designs in Marrakech; Jersey City, Latest Jersey; Venice, Italy, and Malibu, California.

Making a comeback after a years-long absence is Maison Margiela, which had shown John Galliano’s first — and only, to this point — Artisanal men’s collection in 2018, and ready-to-wear men’s collections before that. Its show will happen on Jan. 22 at 8 p.m.

With Rick Owens and Louis Vuitton, respectively, at 12:30 p.m. and a couple of:30 p.m. on Jan. 19, Dior Homme at 2:30 p.m. the subsequent day and Hermès at 3 p.m. on the Saturday, fashion week cornerstones are settling back into familiar configurations.

And are available January, there can be one other Emily in Paris — designer Emily Bode.

Her six-year-old brand revealed on Wednesday that it intended to return to the official Paris menswear calendar this season, with its show now confirmed at 6:30 p.m. on Jan. 21.

Botter, Sacai and White Mountaineering may even take to the runway for his or her fall 2023 collections.

Ludovic de Saint Sernin, who was recently named artistic director of Ann Demeulemeester, is returning to the boys’s calendar on Jan. 22 at 10 a.m. for the autumn 2023 collection of his eponymous gender-fluid brand, after revealing his spring 2023 collection during last October’s womenswear collections.

Presentations may even be plentiful on the six-day schedule.

The autumn 2023 season will see the return of Berluti, with an all-day presentation on Jan. 18. The brand had not shown on the official calendar since January 2021. It had announced it will “take a latest approach to the gathering calendar, selecting its own path for presenting its exceptional products, including collaborative projects and pieces” after announcing the departure of its artistic director Kris Van Assche in April 2021. 

This season’s newcomer is 032c, the Berlin-based cult magazine’s apparel line, designed by cofounder Maria Koch, who will hold a presentation on Jan 20.

Now firmly entrenched, digital content can be broadcast on the federation’s dedicated platform, through pre-recorded movies, livestreams or post-show edits.

Amongst those that will sit this session out are Thom Browne, Craig Green, Rhude in addition to Celine. The Hedi Slimane-designed house’s latest outing was its women’s fall 2023, shown on Dec. 8 in Los Angeles.

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