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12 Jun

Santa Maria Novella Expands Fragrance Line, Opens Shops in

MILAN — Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella is expanding its eau de parfum offering with three latest fragrances, dubbed “Bizzarria,” “Magnolia” and “Gelsomino.”

As reported, the Florentine apothecary launched its first EDP in its 800-year history last yr with “L’Iris,” a scent intended to rejoice its roots by picking as fundamental ingredient the lily, the symbol of the Tuscan city.

The brand’s chief executive officer Gian Luca Perris said the launch was among the many fundamental drivers of the firm’s acceleration in 2022, when sales climbed 56 percent to 46 million euros in comparison with the previous yr.

Such a performance is contributing to Perris’ optimism concerning the latest additions as well, which were already planned and add to the olfactory collection titled “Medici Gardens.”

Perris underscored the cultural value of the project in creating awareness across the fragrance heritage of each Santa Maria Novella and Florence by spotlighting rare botanical species dating back to the Medici era. Specifically, the corporate takes inspiration from the gardens of a dozen villas built between the 15th and 17th centuries by the Medici family and named UNESCO heritage sites in 2013.

“These places are heaven for individuals who do my job,” said Perris, who can be a master perfumer himself. “Plus they represent the proper match with us, as historically the Medicis had ties with Santa Maria Novella.” 

To wit, the corporate was founded by Dominican friars after they arrived in Florence in 1221 and settled within the Santa Maria Novella location, cultivating herbs to arrange medicines for his or her monastery’s infirmary. After manufacturing successful recipes akin to fragrant waters and a bergamot-based fragrance for the queen of France Catherine de’ Medici in 1533 — which continues to be a bestseller — the apothecary opened to the general public, officially launching as a industrial activity in 1612.

The Bizzarria eau de parfum by Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella.

Courtesy of Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella

The brand new EDP “Bizzarria” refers back to the rare citrus fruit, one in every of the 600 species showcased in Villa Medicea in Castello, a 30-minute drive from Florence. Noticed for the primary time in 1644 and never found again until 1980, this variation is understood for being a combination of lemon, bitter orange and cedar, which don’t mix in a hybrid fruit (like within the case of bergamot) but co-exist in an unusually shaped fruit showing characteristics from each plant distinctly.

Along with the Bizzarria citrus, the fragrance features neroli, ginger, cedarwood and musk, amongst other ingredients.

Similarly, the “Magnolia” scent is predicated on the flower covering the identical villa’s façade and is mixed with notes of geranium, amber and musk, amongst others. Combined with bergamot, mandarin, pink pepper and ylang ylang, a special kind of jasmine flower takes center stage in “Gelsomino.”

Resembling more a rose, the Gelsomino del Granduca variety arrived in Florence as a present to the Grand Duke of Tuscany Cosimo III de’ Medici from Goa in 1688. He dedicated a secret greenhouse to it, which Santa Maria Novella has now pledged to support with contributions to its structural restoration and botanical preservation. 

The Magnolia eau de parfum by Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella.

While bottled within the brand’s signature glass flacons, all of the fragrances in the gathering are available in a latest secondary packaging, a paper box inspired by those utilized in the 18th century in Italy to case extracts and essential oils. The packaging nods to the corporate’s archives because it replicates the quilt of a Santa Maria Novella catalogue from the late 1800s. 

Retailing at 160 euros and 245 euros for 50-ml. and 100-ml., respectively, the brand new scents launch on the Santa Maria Novella stores and corners in Italy this week, in France and the U.K. next week and within the U.S. in two weeks. The rollout within the wholesale channel will start from mid-July. 

The packaging of the Gelsomino eau de parfum by Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella.

To further mark the drop, an immersive installation will probably be staged through Nov. 12 on the brand’s fundamental flagship in Via della Scala in Florence. The epitome of a novel customer experience with its Renaissance frescoed ceilings, bronzed angels and aromas lingering within the air from potpourri made with local herbs, the shop will host “Blooming in Paradise,” an artwork commissioned from Felice Limosani that mixes virtual images, sound and olfactory elements.

The goal is to further enhance the storytelling behind the brand and propel its experiential offering. In sync with this mission, Santa Maria Novella is trying to expand its distribution network of directly operated stores to higher communicate its wealthy narrative to customers and further elevate its shopping experience. 

For instance, a second unit in Rome will open in central Via del Babuino by the top of summer, while the brand’s first flagship in Paris will probably be unveiled by the top of 2023. Set to be positioned in Rue Saint-Honoré, opposite Saint Laurent, the unit will add to an existing corner at Le Bon Marché and distribution at key specialty stores, akin to Nose.

These openings will follow recent ones within the U.K. and the U.S. As reported, last week Santa Maria Novella tied up with Harrods, constructing on its two London stores in Piccadilly Arcade and on Walton Street. Last month, the historic apothecary also opened a boutique at The Pierre hotel in Manhattan, marking its fifth flagship within the U.S.

Next up, latest units will open within the Asia-Pacific region, which Perris said represents the second largest marketplace for the brand after Europe and before the U.S.

Santa Maria Novella has three stores in China and two in Hong Kong for the time being, while the general global standalone units and corners are greater than 120.

As for the web channel, the corporate will unveil a revamped platform and e-commerce by the top of the month, geared toward offering an improved user experience and more information to customers. 

All these elements are expected to further fuel Santa Maria Novella’s growth, with sales expected to exceed 60 million euros this yr, in keeping with Perris.

L’Iris eau de parfum by Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella.

The brand’s overall change of pace kickstarted following Italmobiliare’s takeover of the corporate in 2021. As reported, the investment group aimed to support the further development of what is taken into account a gem of the Italian beauty industry by enhancing its distribution network and brand awareness internationally.

Product-wise, a latest course was initiated that very same yr with some products tweaked to fulfill current sustainability demands and the corporate opening as much as newness by promoting its heritage. The approach culminated last yr not only with the introduction of “L’Iris,” but additionally with the enhancement of its skincare offering with the launch of the “Idralia” line.

The introduction of the “Acqua di Rose” line in spring expanded the skincare assortment, which Perris said to draw younger customers to the brand, because it includes products addressing specific skin conditions. Yet the chief underscored the general customer base stays cross-generational because it counts on many loyal clients still purchasing historic categories akin to ambient fragrances and liqueurs. Santa Maria Novella has greater than 600 products in its portfolio, encompassing scents, soaps, pomades, colognes and candles, all in its signature, old-school packaging.

The Gelsomino eau de parfum by Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella.

Looking ahead, Perris plans to further scale the business. “This brand deserves far more; it’s probably essentially the most beautiful and hidden gem among the many Italian brands on the planet. Who else can boast 800 years of carrying on the identical business, in the identical places, perpetuating such a wealthy tradition while continuing to innovate?” said Perris. 

“That’s our real challenge: don’t rest on our laurels and be only a museum that narrates what it has done for eight centuries but to maintain researching and finding latest inspirations and opportunities which can be coherent with the brand,” he concluded.

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