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31 Jan

Schiaparelli, Alexander McQueen‘s Return on Provisional Paris Schedule


PARIS — Having just put men’s and couture to bed, Paris is gearing up for a fizzing fall 2023 women’s session that may see Y/Project’s postponed show, the debut of Harris Reed at Nina Ricci and the return of Alexander McQueen, in response to the provisional schedule released by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.

Set to run Feb. 27 to March 7, Paris Fashion Week will offer 67 shows and 40 presentations, with their digital counterparts broadcast on the federation’s website.

Kicking off the nine-day schedule are the 2023 MA students of the Institut Français de la Mode, who will open the autumn 2023 season at 4 p.m. with their graduate collections.

Storied couture house Schiaparelli might be making its runway debut with the ready-to-wear designs of Daniel Roseberry. The road had been shown as presentations in its Place Vendôme headquarters.

American British designer Reed will make his runway debut as creative director of Nina Ricci on March 3 at 4 p.m., having promised a “magnified femininity” and teasing that direction with an black velvet off-the-shoulder gown worn by Adele for a concert in Las Vegas last December.

Y/Project, initially slated to point out on Jan. 18 in the course of the men’s schedule, might be showing Glenn Martens’ latest designs on the ultimate day, with a 3:30 p.m. show on March 7.

Making their Parisian returns after a three-year absence are Alexander McQueen, which placed on several runway shows in Recent York and London because the pandemic, and Paco Rabanne, who had shown its spring 2023 collection on the tail end of July’s couture week. The latter will show on March 1 at 5:30 p.m., while the Kering-owned McQueen will take the 6:30 p.m. slot on March 4.

Latex specialist Arthur Avellano, who has designed liquid-looking outfits for the likes of Kim Kardashian and Julia Fox, might be joining the 106 houses on the official Paris calendar for fall 2023. Swapping Milan for a Paris runway are Peter Dundas’ label and Palm Angels, which had recently unveiled an ambitious strategy that included extending its womenswear category.

As for the home of Pierre Cardin, now led creatively by Cardin’s great-nephew Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin, it’s allotted spot is March 5 at 6:30 p.m.

The autumn 2023 session may even see 4 labels placed on their first on-schedule presentations.

Amongst them are Irish designer Róisín Pierce, a finalist of the 2022 LVMH Prize and winner on the 2019 Hyères International Festival of Fashion, Photography and Fashion Accessories.

A graduate of Dublin’s National College of Art and Design textile design program, Pierce has been working a zero-waste wardrobe, using ruching techniques inspired by local craftsmanship and “letting the material manipulation guide [her],” she told WWD in the course of the fashion competition. Her all-white palette is a nod to Irish women’s histories.

An alum of The Row, Loewe, and Alighieri, designer Niccolò Pasqualetti will show on Feb. 27. Their androgynous designs supported by a sustainable and artisanal approach netted them a spot in last 12 months’s LVMH Prize semifinals and the eye of outlets like Ssense, Machine-A, The Broken Arm and Dover Street Market Ginza.

They’ll be joined on the presentations calendar by one other former semifinalist, London-based Chinese designer Chen Peng, who won the inaugural Yu Prize and at their March 4 show will extend the unisex universe most recently seen in a capsule with e-tailer 24s. British designer Margaret Howell, who built her fame on sleek and complicated wares that telegraph ease and quiet luxury, might be crossing the Channel to point out in Paris on March 5.

The ultimate version of the calendar might be released the week of Feb. 6, in response to the French fashion federation.

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