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27 Jun

Soft Tailoring for Spring: What Paris Buyers Loved

Soft Tailoring for Spring: What Paris Buyers Loved

PARIS — Men’s Week was indelibly marked by Pharrell Williams’ debut as creative director at Louis Vuitton. The brand celebrated with a spectacle for the ages — some attendees even said they were “witnessing history” — with a blowout event that took over the Pont Neuf bridge with a concert and branding galore. It earned buyers’ mentions for favorite collection and best show.

As the massive opener, Louis Vuitton “set the tone, which was ‘showtime,’ The general theme was entertainment,” said Rinascenete’s head of fashion Federica Montelli.

That frenzied vibe carried through the week with pop-up stores, collaboration launches and more parties than one could count. “The energy on the town is robust and fashion is employing entertainment greater than product content to drive sales.”

Kim Jones’ quieter fifth anniversary “pop-up” show at Dior was also a conceptual stunner, for its inventive use of presenting the models in addition to his deft design.

Jones’ collection was cited as a favourite for his “clear concentrate on the garments,” said Emmanuel de Bayser, co-owner of The Corner in Berlin. “In fact, all of us love beautiful locations all all over the world and mega show events, but at the tip we should always not forget it’s all about selling clothes and products. So when clothes are again the focus it is extremely appreciated.”

Bruce Pask, senior men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus, noted the Dior collection had “a pleasant sense of caprice.”

Dries Van Noten and Loewe were also favorites amongst buyers, while Amiri was a serious contender. It “has rightfully entered the list of the perfect brands within the male panorama and the trail of evolution that [designer] Mike [Amiri] has made is actually noteworthy. Despite being an independent brand and never a part of any large conglomerate, it manages to draw increasingly celebrities and essential customers,” said Riccardo Tortato, head of shopping for department at Tsum Moscow.

For young talent, sentiment was mixed. Some felt just like the season was exploding with creativity, while others felt it was lacking as a consequence of the cruel economic realities facing latest brands. Of those who showed, Bluemarble, Fang Chang Weng and Koché were amongst notable latest talent to observe, while Botter, Hed Mayner and Marine Serre are designers gaining momentum.

Overall, buyers noted that the week was more about experiences, which they’re finding true for his or her clients as well. They now not wish to “click and buy” blindly.

Softness was a key theme, each in tailoring on blazers and relaxed trousers, and in the colour palette of grays, light blues and sand.

Tanks, sheer and other skin-baring pieces were also the talk of the town. Paired with the increasingly hot weather as a consequence of global heating, buyers felt they are going to move off shelves — and so they may move the needle on men’s fashion too.

“When applied to a short-sleeve woven shirt or a knit polo, we’ve found the last word example of an item in the ladies’s market that was a runaway success 20 or so years ago — the going out top,” said Bloomingdale’s men’s fashion director Justin Berkowitz.

“If there’s a running theme of conversation in Paris this week, it’s been concerning the temperature,” Berkowitz added of temperatures that, on Sunday, topped 95 degrees with not a cloud within the sky.

Federico Barassi, vp of menswear buying at Ssense, summed it up as his key impression of the week: “Hot and sweaty.”

Dries Van Noten Men’s Spring 2024

Aitor Rosas Sunez/WWD

Here, what buyers needed to say concerning the Paris men’s collections for spring 2024.

Demir Aslanoglu, menswear buying director, Beymen Group

Favorite collections: Louis Vuitton, Loewe, Dries Van Noten, Ami, Marine Serre. 

Best show format: Louis Vuitton’s extraordinary show on Pont Neuf bridge with a pump of top-class celebrity attendees was a big-time statement. Due to Pharrell and his team, it was the proper start of a latest era with an important combination of art, fashion, music, history and future. 

Top trends: Dazzling colours, soft tailoring, sparkles, layered looks and fluidity. 

Investment pieces: Louis Vuitton’s Speedy bags and The Row’s soft double-layered leather Bambilor Coat. We’re focusing more on fashion show and statement pieces in comparison with up to now, as we consider there’s more solution to go on men’s fashion and men’s dressing styles than for girls, and we will probably be much more surprised by the potential future changes in men’s fashion.  

Budgets up or down: Our budgets are up for Paris, because brands showing listed here are more on the priority list of our customers. We have now a more diversified customer typology lately, which is focusing more on fashion-forward and emerging designers. 

Latest talent: Feng Chen Weng and Koché were the brand new discoveries — and interesting ones. 

Impressions of the week: AI-generated fashion is getting stronger. The notice of inclusivity and sustainability is increasing.  

Federico Barassi, vp of menswear buying, Ssense 

Favorite collections: Wales Bonner, Lemaire.  

Best show format: Rick Owens. There was thunder and rain that day, however the second the entire guests arrived, the sun got here out. 

Top trends: Collarless blazers, shiny and silver, pockets (cargo every little thing) and luxury leather. 

Investment pieces: The Junya Watanabe belted coat, Comme des Garçons Homme Plus double-toe shoe and the Rick Owens high-waisted trousers. 

Latest talent: Ranra, Charlie Constantinou and Lu’u Dan. 

Impressions of the week: Hot and sweaty. 

Justin Berkowitz: fashion director, men’s, Bloomingdale’s

Favorite collections: Louis Vuitton, Dries Van Noten, Rick Owens, Lemaire, Wales Bonner

Best show format: Kim Jones’ Dior achieved something rare — applause before a single model began to walk. His presentation began with several dozen looks, raising up from beneath a tiled floor: the whole collection on display, en masse. Not only was it an impactful and pleasant surprise to the audience, it gave the viewer an extended time to savor each look in the gathering.

Top trends: In a phrase: skin is in. Shorter shorts, bare arms, and open-weave, mesh, or otherwise transparent shirts were a really consistent theme — combined, the general effect of the season is one focused on male sensuality. This was further expressed through the usage of novel fabrications and embellishments hardly ever seen in menswear. Collections were awash with pieces that were fluid and flowy, shiny or sparkly, and embellished. What’s interesting about nearly all of these more forward ideas, though the execution could also be a bit finer, or pushed a bit further, is that we’ve seen lots of the concepts begin on the road, which provides me confidence in how a broader male consumer may adopt them next spring, though they’ll style the look a rather different way.

When it comes to silhouette, the form of the season is obvious: fuller pants with volume, whether in denim or a more fluid fabric, and a rather boxy cropped jacket or shirt that lands on the waist or slightly below, to spotlight the underside silhouette. The general effect is fairly long and lean, and quite flattering. 

Investment pieces: Pharrell’s bags at Vuitton are fast icons; the leather shopping bag was quite genius.

Latest talent: 4S Design’s debut presentation was excellent. Incredible and novel fabric development applied to tried and true menswear shapes looked like a recipe for achievement.

Amiri Men’s Spring 2024

Amiri Men’s Spring 2024

Dominique Maitre/WWD

Andrea Burbi, buyer and brand collaboration, LuisaViaRoma 

Favorite collections: Dior, Loewe, Amiri.

Best show format: KidSuper, like at all times these days. It’s greater than a fashion show; it’s an event to attend. But additionally Amiri — the mood over there was what we customers need at once. Having fun with it, living an experience. 

Top trends: Tailoring shorts and glossy embellishing like paillettes, for instance. 

Investment pieces: Tailored shorts, something that also we saw plenty of in Milan at Prada and Valentino. With shirt, tie and loafers. 

Budgets up or down: Down, [we are] having a more conservative approach. 

Latest talent: I believe it’s hard in this era to emerge. I didn’t notice anything specific that caught my eye. 

Impressions of the week: When it comes to presentations and fashion shows there’s at all times plenty of excitement around Paris. It at all times accommodates plenty of [celebrity buzz], especially within the June edition, with artists and athletes who can finally participate. The style system was already a little bit bit apprehensive, having a more conservative approach and trying to grasp which direction the style business will take. Generally, people, having more awareness and consciousness, prefer to live experiences as a substitute of just being passive, clicking and buying. We are able to notice a return to retailers, so now we have to supply them something special that they can not find in all places. 

Reginald Christian, men’s fashion market manager, Saks 

Favorite collections: Dior, Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Amiri, Loewe, Dries Van Noten. 

Best show format: At Dior, Kim Jones’ truly breathtaking presentation. Each model fantastically emerged from the ground of the venue in an exquisite showing of silhouettes, playfulness and luxury. The Amiri show took place on the Jardin des Plantes, where guests were greeted with refreshments and mild sounds by Isaac DaBom. The garden was the proper backdrop for the gathering filled with fluid tailoring and pops of color.

 The Loewe show, centered around sculpture fountains created by Lynda Benglis, shifted our perspectives to embrace the facility of the unexpected. The gathering featured beautifully redefined silhouettes and astonishing fabrications like crystals and supple leather.

Top trends: Trends seen on the runway pointed to the tasteful direction of contemporary menswear customers. Items like short suits felt effortlessly handsome and refined, best seen at Sacai. Lightweight outerwear and relaxed trousers felt refreshingly polished. Embellishments in tops and pants injected glamor into masculine wardrobes, best seen at Loewe. The tank was a quiet but entirely supportive underpinning to silhouettes. This season’s outfits were accomplished by sleek, low-profile skate sneakers, loafers and fisherman sandals. Bags and hats were offered in an array of nylon and raffia fabrics that will probably be a must have for our travel-ready customers. Collections felt elevated and refreshing, best seen with the refined, fluid tailoring at Givenchy and the elegant silk bombers at Dries Van Noten.  

Investment pieces: The astonishingly crafted tweed blazer from Dior and the sky blue crystal polo from Loewe. 

Latest talent: Bluemarble, designed by Anthony Alvarez, continues to develop vigorous and complex silhouettes. The oversize blazers paired with relaxed denim and vibrant silk sets will provide latest and exciting garments for the contemporary shopper. 

Impressions of the week: It’s been an incredibly steamy week in Paris filled with breezy, vibrant and complex clothing. Overall, Paris Fashion Week was all about taking over latest silhouettes and fabrications that embraced the convenience and excitement of menswear dressing.  

Emmanuel de Bayser, co-owner of The Corner, Berlin 

Favorite collections: Dior, Rick Owens, Sacai, Loewe, Ami.

Best show format: Aside from the Louis Vuitton show, which was absolutely spectacular in all regards, my favorite show was Dior, with a transparent concentrate on the garments. In fact, all of us love beautiful locations all all over the world and mega show events, but at the tip we should always not forget it’s all about selling clothes and products. So when clothes are again the focus it is extremely appreciated. 

Top trends: Fluid, easy tailoring; colours, and skin. 

Investment pieces: From what we already bought for spring 2024 for men, it’s initially recognizable signed pieces. With the costs that now we have, our customers wish to be sure that that the products they buy may be visibly identified immediately — be it a logo, a leather patch, a white sole or an accentuated shoulder. Eighty percent of what we buy is signed, in all categories: ready-to-wear, shoes, bags. It is fashion and its recognizable codes that our customers are buying. 

Impressions of the week: There may be more creativity and international young talents showing in Paris than anywhere else. It makes this fashion week and the town look more energizing and is an ideal addition to the mega shows from the massive brands. Fashion weeks are very inspirational since you experience fashion in all places — live in shows or outside the shows on the street, in hotels and restaurants. Also, now we have really seen a really positive evolution of men’s fashion for the past few seasons becoming more gender-fluid and daring with latest silhouettes. The Saint Laurent men’s fashion show and event in Berlin two weeks ago was a excellent example of that.

Ludovic De Saint Sernin RTW Spring 2024

Ludovic De Saint Sernin RTW Spring 2024

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Laura Darmon, buyer director and business development, ENG

Favorite collections: Loewe, Ludovic de saint Sernin, Kiko Kostadinov, Rick Owens, Ernest W. Baker, Courrèges.

Best show format: Dior with the models rising from the bottom. The set design looks really good. I also liked the venue alternative and vibe for Ludovic de Saint Sernin, it was really summer and elevated just like the brand at all times does.

Top trends: Sequins, large shoulder, silver.

Investment pieces: I’d say mostly strong and light-weight pieces for the region we’re buying for [Shanghai], but when it comes to category, every little thing.

Budgets up or down: Up — now we have latest locations on the way in which.

Latest talent: Burc Akyol, an incredible collection.

Impressions of the week: An abundance of expressive freedom, amplified volumes, and alluring silhouettes — this liberation inside menswear is actually charming, and I absolutely adore it.

Victoria Dartigues, merchandising director fashion and accessories, Samaritaine Paris Pont-Neuf 

Favorite collections: Louis Vuitton, Dior, Dries Van Noten, Lemaire, Wales Bonner. 

Best show format: Louis Vuitton x Pharrell Williams, epic! 

Top trends: A sublime casual wardrobe based on relaxed chic look and loose blazer. Tailoring is present on every catwalk with culotte or palazzo pants and an elongated elegant jacket. The denim may be very present, at the same time as a complete look. Two color trends: one based on pastels like baby blue, baby pink and peach; in contrast, there’s one other based on autumnal hues with tones of brown and sand. Transparency and sheer fabric like chiffon, organza, raffia. 

Investment pieces: Cargo short and skorts, a relaxed jacket, moccasins. The brand new Speedy bag that Pharrell Williams reinterpreted with spiced up colours for Louis Vuitton. 

Budgets up or down: We’re feeling positive concerning the 12 months ahead. 

Latest talent: Excellent vibes on the Ouest Paris presentation celebrating bodies and movement while emphasizing transparency and workwear. We also loved Songzio and Heliot Emil. 

Impressions of the week: The opening of fashion week with Vuitton and its impressive performance show was the “It” moment of this edition. It was a hyperactive Paris Men’s Fashion Week with luxury houses and massive shows but additionally many contemporary collections and talented young designers showing solid collection with almost an absence of logos and mixture of functional, but aesthetic looks. 

Jian DeLeon, men’s fashion director, Nordstrom 

Favorite collections: Undercover, Nicholas Daley, 4SDesigns, Jacquemus, Dior. 

Best show format: The hidden elevator platforms at Dior were an progressive touch, adding spectacle that didn’t overshadow considered one of Kim Jones’ most impressive collections for the home.  

Top trends: Nautical inspiration was prevalent in all places on and off the runway. 

Investment pieces: Undercover presented a couture-like tackle the biker jacket, and the tweed Buffalo loafers from Dior similarly add a component of savoir-faire to a highly versatile shoe. 

Latest talent:  CFDA nominees 4SDesigns and J Keefer collection were amongst my favorites, and emerging Australian brand Song for the Mute is doing impressive things with textiles. Their Adidas collaboration is for certain to be a sleeper hit. 

Impressions of the week: Paris Fashion Week was all about balancing spectacle with substance. On the one hand, you had a number of the most-anticipated shows taking center stage as pop cultural events. At the identical time, independent designers proceed to prove that a dedication to craft, regular world-building, and engrossing storytelling in a group are still a proven path to face out in a crowded market. 

Lemaire RTW Spring 2024

Lemaire RTW Spring 2024

Courtesy of Lemaire

Alice Feillard, menswear officer and buying director, Galeries Lafayette 

Favorite collections: Loewe, Lemaire, Hed Mayner. 

Best show format: It’s inconceivable not to say Louis Vuitton, with Pharrell’s first mega-production show on Pont Neuf; Loewe’s beautiful set with sculptural fountains; Meta Campania Collective’s first presentation with a poetic performance on the street, and Aldo Maria Camilla’s elegant dancers. 

Top trends: A clean and minimal silhouette in very refined fabrics. A non-logo season replaced by elevated essentials with a concentrate on product and quality. Soft tailoring in all places with loose jackets, wide pleated pants and plenty of shorts. Many beautiful shirts, from oversize poplin shirts to fluid blouses. The shirt is the brand new T-shirt. 

A masculine sensuality, where the body is more exposed and assumed through gender-fluid pieces: skirts, short shorts, fluid tops, embroidered blouses and tweeds. A monochrome color palette with tonal, earthy shades, slightly than prints, with touches of pastels — from yellow to light blue. The return to full black. 

Investment pieces: A double-breasted jacket, an unlined thin jacket, an oversize poplin shirt, tailored Bermuda shorts, leather slippers. 

Budgets up or down: Up. 

Latest talent: Meta Campania Collective’s understated casual luxury in sophisticated fabrics. We keep investing in talented designers that we support: Botter, Hed Mayner, Marine Serre. 

Impressions of the week: It’s a robust fashion week with a creative and complex proposal, but with a sensible approach, a really desirable men’s wardrobe. Paris Fashion Week is by far a step ahead, being each progressive and likewise business.  

Laura Larbalestier, fashion director, Harvey Nichols Group Ltd. 

Favorite collections: On and off the runway, and for those who concentrate on product, it’s Dries Van Noten.  

Best show format: Louis Vuitton for a grand debut. 

Top trends: Looser silhouettes at Amiri and Dries Van Noten, and constructed silhouettes at Rick Owens and Loewe.  

Investment pieces: Boat shoes, polos, wide-leg pants, crystals and sequins, pleated shorts. 

Budgets up or down: It will depend on the gathering. 

Latest talent: We’re focusing more on existing talent.  

Impressions of the week: Menswear is having a very natural evolution, moving right into a more expressive and chic way of dressing. 

Mei Lin, head of merchandising, XC273 

Favorite collection: Kiko Kostadinov. 

Best show format: Kiko Kostadinov. The expansion of his design DNA may be very clever, combined with the usage of color, at all times very progressive. Before going into the show venue, he also showed his archive piece within the from of a backstage display. It’s a fun way for us to witness the event of the brand. 

Top trends: In Paris this season you possibly can still feel the coexistence of varied styles. We’ll add more quiet-style brands for the build-up of a day by day closet. 

Investment pieces: Statement trousers from Namesake.

Budgets up or down: Up.

Latest talent: Juntae Kim 

Impressions of the week: Compared with last season, I feel that there have been lots more appointments, but as a consequence of a decent schedule, we concentrate on brands that we’re buying, and we don’t have much time to find latest brands. The opposite thing that impressed me probably the most is that the weather was extremely popular and the working environment was a bit hostile for each brands and buyers. 

Loewe Men’s Spring 2024

Loewe, men’s spring 2024

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Simon Longland, buying director – fashion, Harrods 

Favorite collections: Loewe, a surprising collection from Jonathan Anderson. Perhaps his best yet. Dries Van Noten never disappoints, but this season was an exceptionally strong collection showing the breadth of his skills. Kim Jones celebrated his fifth anniversary at Dior, exactly five years to the day from his first show. The gathering was wealthy intimately and fabrication, and the silhouettes were each refined and modern. All the time latest and exciting, Kim Jones has a capability to search out fresh ways to deliver a runway show that now we have not seen before. 

Best show format: Pharrell’s first collection at Louis Vuitton took a runway show to an entire latest level. This really was a spectacle to behold. This was a show like no other. 

Top trends: Jackets and shorts made a big impact on the runways this season. We saw them in matching sets but additionally in contrasting colours and fabrics. Menswear has fully embraced coordinated dressing, with fully matching looks seen in all places. Collections were largely devoid of logo and graphics, notably we saw plenty of looks featuring just one color or fabric worn head to toe, in addition to a couture-level approach to chop and fabrication in shirts and T-shirts. 

Investment pieces: I expect we’ll see an enormous uptake in all of the above trends, from matching shorts and jackets to embellished T-shirts, these will turn out to be the must-have items for the season. These trends were seen across very different aesthetics, meaning irrespective of what your personal brand tastes are, you possibly can adapt this to work for any individual style. 

Impressions of the week: Overall, this was every week of some exceptional collections, with many designers really at the highest of their game and arguably some showing their easiest men’s collections. These collections were an indication of the skill and talent of their houses and a real celebration of real fashion. 

Federica Montelli, head of fashion, Rinascente 

Favorite collections:  Dior Homme, Loewe, Ami, Lemaire, Dries Van Noten, Givenchy, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake. One cannot not mention Louis Vuitton’s show-stopping first outing by Pharrell Williams. 

Best show format: Kim Jones at Dior Homme had a clap-worthy moment when models surged from holes in the ground. The enormous steel-colored box built at Les Invalides was the proper canvas for the striking fluorescent colours, elevated tailoring and embellishments — all codes of Kim Jones’ tenure. 

Top trends: Tailoring is confirmed at the bottom of the fashionable men’s wardrobe. Designers are interpreting it in an ever-fresh way, with barely slimmer and elongated proportions which might be more fluid. Colours ranged from the ever-present neutrals to beautiful earthy mid-tones, to navy blue, to a pop of  fluorescent , as seen at Dior Homme. 

There’s plenty of denim, which we had predicted being a key focus of the season, starting from bleached to preciously embellished pieces — i.e., at Loewe. We have now finally moved away from gorpcore and seeing more of a preppy and streetwear mix, paired once more with tailoring. In reality, the tie is a must have item that’s becoming a streetwear favorite.  

Proportions in pants were a giant focus for designers, ranging from the tailored shorts — a trend carrying over from Milan fashion week — to the ever-present wide-leg and low-waist denim, while we also saw wide pleated pants — resembling at Dior — or high-waist pants. Loewe, which showed the latter, at all times pushes the boundaries of shapes, and I’m sure we’ll see many high-waisted pants within the seasons to return. Last but not least, the shimmer and the sheer were ever-present, still conveying a female touch, which is now a given in fluid men’s fashion. 

Investment pieces: A tailored suit in gray, blue or warm sand, by Dior or Dries Van Noten. An oversize bag from Loewe, which counts as a “couple’s” investment — a “she-and-he” piece. Each a seasonal novelty and an investment piece is Louis Vuitton’s Speedy giant trunk. The brand new color interpretations  make it once more fashionable, and the massive bag’s proportions make it a must for the season to return. 

Latest talent: I feel that the emerging designer scene has been a bit more silent this season, reflecting the difficulties that independent creators are having in a polarized market. I will probably be waiting for girls’s fashion week for a number of more novelties coming up.  

Impressions of the week: Louis Vuitton by Pharrell opened fashion week and really set the tone, which was “showtime.” The general theme was entertainment, also with the assistance of Parisian landmarks. The strong presence of shimmering pieces on the runway and the quantity of parties happening on the town did confirm this was the mood. There have been also many temporary stores popping up, with limited-edition collaborations from magazines and creators, confirming that the energy on the town is robust and fashion is employing entertainment greater than product content to drive sales.  

Bosse Myhr, director of menswear and womenswear, Selfridges 

Favorite collections: Louis Vuitton by Pharrell (skateboard P) was our favourite. It was a group that had all of it — shoes, jackets, coats, suits, bags — every little thing was just super. We also liked Rick Owens’ show, and Jonathan Anderson at Loewe. 

Best show format: It was hard to fault Louis Vuitton, transforming the Pont Neuf into the Louis Vuitton front room. The show that had all of it,with the choir from Pharrell’s hometown performing and the after party with a Jay-Z and Pharrell performance. 

Top trends: We still saw plenty of quiet luxury but streetwear and avant garde influences made the runways more diverse.  

Investment pieces: Large, oversize trousers were the must-haves. Rick Owens and Junya Watanbe explored jeans in all their variations. A masterclass in fashion design for me.  

Budgets up or down: We’re looking positively into the brand new season.  

Latest talent: We picked up Diomene, a group by Damir Doma. The sensibility he created in his collection was paying homage to the newest trends and was made in earthy colours and shapes that feel relevant today.    

Impressions of the week: Overall, it felt like Paris Men’s Fashion Week was back, more creative and powerful. The trends weren’t single-minded, but multifaceted: streetwear, tailoring, quiet luxury. They didn’t merge but each established itself as its own trend. It was loud, colourful, latest, exciting and arguably the middle of the universe for men’s fashion in June. 

Rick Owens Men's RTW Spring 2024

Rick Owens, men’s spring 2024

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

Franck Nauerz, director of menswear, Le Bon Marché 

Favorite collections: Dior, Louis Vuitton, Dries Van Noten. 

Best show format: I loved the scenography of the Loewe show with Lynda Benglis’ giant water fountains. But the perfect was Dior, where we had a powerful show during which the models appeared from the ground. The music and the rhythm of the show were charming. I particularly liked the soft-tailoring silhouettes and the touches of fluorescent colours like yellow.  

The Louis Vuitton show marked the arrival of recent artistic director Pharrell Williams. It was a real spectacle that fused decor and music, offering a clever combination of the essence of the home and the designer’s creativity. Pharrell breathed latest energy into the brand’s iconic checkerboard motif, subtly transforming it right into a military camouflage pattern, adding a touch of urban style. 

Top trends: The boys’s shows at this 12 months’s Paris Fashion Week showcased dominant trends characterised by elegant — yet relaxed — silhouettes that embody the concept of ‘quiet luxury.’ This trend manifested itself in a mix of tailoring pieces with pleated shorts, embellished with subtle pastel colours, resembling sage or purple accents. 

Investment pieces: A greater emphasis on soft tailoring. A preferred combination consists of loose-fitting, flowing pants paired with a rather longer double-breasted jacket. Polo-inspired blouses are very fashionable. They provide a subtle mix between a classic shirt and an informal polo, making them versatile and suitable for various occasions. Seersucker fabric, with its characteristic stripes and light-weight texture, is especially popular for blouses, bringing a touch of summer sophistication to outfits. Also, short-sleeved shirts with embroideries/craftsmanship. 

Latest talent: Courrèges’ latest spring 2024 collection pleasantly surprised us, once more pushing the boundaries of fashion. The clothes stand out for his or her clean lines and daring details, resembling slits, harnesses and original cuts, offering a contemporary, sophisticated aesthetic. 

Commas brand. Its collections are designed with high-quality fabrics from Europe and Japan, offering clean, classic silhouettes paired with original artwork. Cmmn Swdn brand offers a contemporary wardrobe with romantic accents. The boys’s selection features shirts in light, sheer voiles. Song for the Mute, which is on the innovative of contemporary design, following within the footsteps of the nice houses that play with materials and shapes. Product design relies on the exploration of materials, stitching and detailed textures. 

Impressions of the week: It was a busy week with many presentations and events. I used to be impressed by the thrill and excitement surrounding fashion week in Paris. The shows were particularly surprising and progressive, with designers offering strong, elegant silhouettes. What particularly struck me was the return of more formal, elegant fashion. The outfits presented were refined and polished. This shows a desire to return to a more formal aesthetic, where elegance is the order of the day. It’s exciting to see this evolution. 

Bruce Pask, senior men’s fashion director, Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus 

Favorite collections: Dior, Dries Van Noten, Amiri. 

Best show format: Louis Vuitton. After a mood-calming evening boat ride up the Seine, we disembarked to see Paris’ beloved Pont Neuf covered in outsized gold Damier checkerboard sparkling within the sunset, accordion music playing, setting an epic scene for a celebrated American in Paris. It was all truly spectacular and an exhilarating starting to the subsequent chapter of Louis Vuitton.  

Dior’s mass model ascension from below the tiled runway was as stunning to see because it was surprising, and a improbable solution to highlight considered one of Kim Jones’ best collections to this point.  

A really honorable mention to Homme Plissée by Issey Miyake for giving a theatrical insight into the craft and technique involved within the creation of the brand’s distinctively pleated garments by sharing a little bit of the method on the runway, rolling out a creased “carpet” embedded with garments that were cut out, released and placed on models. It was an interesting solution to present a really beautiful, colourful collection full of great, wearable items.  

Top trends: The couture techniques, craft, and artistry which have informed womenswear here in Paris for many years have had a really welcome presence in lots of men’s collections here, showcasing an actual elevation of materials and execution. There continues to be an overarching concentrate on proportion play and exaggerated shapes, with fuller cut pants and shorts, high waists, prolonged shoulders on tailoring and outerwear, and elongated sleeves. The slouchy jacket and full pants have been ubiquitous. Summer “tweeds” in varied colourful and textural fabrications have been a pleasant surprise and novelty. A palette of chalky pastels has given a delightful, refreshing look to collections. Leather strapped sandals, especially when worn with flowing tailoring, looked great.  

Investment pieces: A Dior Cannage tweed twin set, jacket or suit — all were terrific. A Louis Vuitton “Dami-flage” carry-on, backpack, or duffle. 

Impressions of the week: Paris truly has been the town of spectacle with historic houses presenting astonishing, epically scaled productions and truly wonderful, masterfully designed and merchandised collections which might be sure to appeal to our luxury customers. There may be at all times a bounty of creativity here and now we have seen some very inventive collections and an overall elevation of the menswear; an elegant, dressed-up elegance. I’m excited by the boldness, fluidity, and inventive fashion now we have seen here in Paris.  

Damien Paul, head of menswear, Matchesfashion 

Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten. 

Best show format: Loewe and the Lynda Benglis fountains. 

Top trends: A latest sexy. Color. Shape and form. Reinvented elegance. Sparkle.  

Investment pieces: Sophisticated separates. From fluid, semi sheer shirting perfect for evening to chic blazers and neat tailored trousers. Investing in wardrobe separates that may be worn in some ways is the neatest solution to invest this season.  

Latest talent: Amsterdam-based Róhe. 

Impressions of the week: A latest sexiness got here through in lots of collections. From high waists and robust trousers to sheer fabrics and chic tailoring. Texture got here through in raw edges, sequins, and voile. Tailoring was sometimes sculptural and at other times louche.   

Ida Petersson, buying director, Browns 

Favorite collections: Dior, Amiri, Rick Owens, Dries Van Noten, and, in fact, not forgetting Pharrell’s debut at Louis Vuitton. 

Best show format: Dior’s fifth-year anniversary show — an unforgettable show inside the grounds of the École Militaire. 

Top trends: The Gentleman is back — suiting was in all places. It’s exciting to see the evolution of quiet luxury, which may be very much still dominating the runway, this time infused with sportswear and sleek detailing. 

Investment pieces: Dior — for the last word summer suiting — and Loewe for probably the most amazing utilitarian tailoring in khaki. 

Budgets up or down: Our budgets are level as we remain cautious in the present climate. 

Latest talent: We’re still within the means of finalizing our orders, so watch this space. 

Impressions of the week: What every week — Paris didn’t disappoint. From Wales Bonner to Dior, the energy was amazing, and it was great to see everyone out and about having fun with the shows. 

Auralee_Mens_Spring2024

Auralee, men’s spring2024

Courtesy of Auralee

Luke Raymond, senior menswear lead, Farfetch 

Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, Auralee, The Row. 

Best show format: Can’t ignore the Louis Vuitton extravaganza, the epitome of ‘fashion as entertainment’, but for me, Amiri’s much needed spritz time bar set-up at Jardin des Plantes and Rick Owens’ uncompromising ricochet of fireworks were the standouts of the week. 

Top trends: Bubbling in Milan and confirmed in Paris, the shorts suit has cemented its status because the look of the season. Almost every collection featured a version of it in the combo. Pastel tones have evolved right into a more acidic, sherbet zone, seen across most categories and executed in easy lightweight handles. Loose, wide silhouettes across tailoring and predominantly trousers and shorts highlight a streetwear influence that has evolved right into a more grown-up space. Already seen in Berlin at Saint Laurent and in Milan with Prada, the strong shoulder has emerged because the season’s more directional proposal. It’s definitely more of a micro-trend, but it can be interesting to see how the high-waisted lines proposed by Rick Owens and Jonathan Anderson at Loewe translate post-market. 

Investment pieces: The cream, 1.5 breasted suit as worn by Jonas Gloer at Wales Bonner. Lemaire’s leather moto jacket, cropped knits at Loewe. Outerwear and tailoring at Dries Van Noten. Amiri’s polo shirts, Bermuda shorts and double pleat trousers. The Row’s perfect Oxford shirt and CDGHP’s trompe l’oeil blazer. 

Budgets up or down: An important season that hit a balance between experimentation and commerciality, which should only be thing. 

Latest talent: Winnie, helmed by Idris Balogun. LVMH Prize nominee Burc Akyol and Conor McKnight. All offering nuanced, idiosyncratic takes on menswear staples. 

Impressions of the week: It was an optimistic tipping point in menswear where the longer term of the industry starts to emerge with greater clarity. Honest proposals of what to wear that acknowledged the true history of menswear, taking within the classics but additionally the streetwear era to land on some extent that isn’t either/or but a fusion of the 2 that feels truly representative of how men are and can dress. 

Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew 

Favorite collections: Louis Vuitton, Dior, Dries Van Noten, Amiri. 

Best show format: Designers leveraged Paris because the backdrop with bridges, military buildings, and picturesque outdoor spaces to present the collections this season. Stand out presentation formats included the bridge set ups by Louis Vuitton and Kenzo, the art installations from Loewe and The Row, and the attractive parade of models on the Lemaire show. 

Top trends: Tailoring takes a more dressed down approach with a concentrate on impeccably crafted separates, done in fluid and relaxed silhouettes. Wales Bonner, The Row, Lemaire, and Dries Van Noten all are redefining traditional codes of men’s tailoring and updating for today’s modern gentleman. Technical outerwear and sports-inspired motifs proceed to be a robust trend, with collaborations fueling this demand. Nobody does it higher than Junya Watanabe. Traditional codes of masculinity evolve into more gender fluid designs with sheer fabrications, lace insets, and floral designs being blended into the more classic tailored silhouettes. There may be a latest fashion remix here in Paris. 

Investment pieces: Louis Vuitton’s thick-soled Mary Jane; Dries Van Noten sequin shorts; Amiri bouclé jacket; Dior embroidered tweed jacket; Junya Watanabe Latest Balance; Wales Bonner Adidas collaboration; Sacai Carhartt. 

Impressions of the week: This Paris Men’s Fashion Week was a sensational intersection of design, cultural arts, and the electrifying fashion community. We’re in a really exciting moment on this planet of men’s design on the time with a more expressive approach to elegance and masculinity.  

Riccardo Tortato, head of shopping for department, Tsum Moscow 

Favorite collection: Amiri.  

Best show format: Rick Owens. As usual he staged a theatrical show where the contrast between the all black of the garments and the colours of the fireworks in front of the Eiffel Tower will remain imprinted in our minds. Even the rain stopped firstly of the show. 

Top trends: Just because it had begun to be seen in Milan, the blazer is actually the strong garment for next summer. A blazer paired with comfortable trousers or shorts. 

Investment pieces: Leather garments by Amiri. An embroidered jacket by Dior. 

Impressions of the week: This was surely the style week characterised by Louis Vuitton with its maxi show. A show like this and with this investment can’t be in comparison with the others. What is obvious in lots of shows is an incredible attention to the product and to true creativity. The message of a more formal man began at Pitti in Milan arrives in Paris with more fashionable and more fluid codes. If this was actually the 12 months that decreed the tip of street style, it was also the season during which sneakers disappeared on many catwalks. Shoes returned as a product more suited to the elegant look. Paris has pushed for transparencies, embroideries that perhaps won’t be so easily inserted into the male wardrobe. The blazer with shorts combination jogs my memory plenty of the proposals a few years ago by one other famous Frenchman, Jean Paul Gaultier, and will as a substitute turn out to be a latest modern search for all men. 

Eric Young, founder, Le Monde de SHC 

Favorite collections: Magliano, B+ Umit Benan, Louis Vuitton

Best show format: This time it needs to be Louis Vuitton, and I had the pleasure of seeing what a brilliant brand can do for the time being. The entire thing was mind blowing. 

Top trends: Genderless knit tops and suits which might be neither overly feminine nor masculine; classic low-key luxury style, the so-called “old money style” is back in trend. Super-long coats proceed to be popular. Although not suitable for everybody, that doesn’t prevent it proceed to be a modern symbol. 

Investment pieces: Handcrafted decorative details could make a chunk look wealthy in texture in addition to high class. It’s a category price investing on this season. 

Budgets up or down: Overall it is similar as previous seasons, but there will probably be some flexibility in budget preparation. 

Impressions of the week: The entire men’s fashion week packed not as many latest ideas as I anticipated. It’s probably related to the worldwide economic environment for the time being. 

— With contributions from Samantha Conti, Joelle Diderich, Lily Templeton, Jennifer Weil, Alex Wynne and Tianwei Zhang

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