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7 Nov

Stan Herman Dishes About Designers, Recent Book

Stan Herman Dishes About Designers, Recent Book

Many years after most individuals would have called it quits within the working world, Stan Herman remains to be in the sport.

The 95-year-old designer will rejoice the discharge of his memoir, “Uncross Your Legs, a Life in Fashion,” Tuesday night at Rizzoli’s Recent York City store. A compilation of collages, sketches, photographs and sometimes dishy details in regards to the American fashion industry, the Pointed Leaf-published tome is an encyclopedia of sorts, albeit from one man’s standpoint.

Except for being the industry’s unofficial historian, Herman served because the president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America for a record 16 years. The judiciousness required to maintain that post is hinted at as soon as readers open the book. The tip sheets on the very front of the book feature lots of of names of designers, who were CFDA members during his reign. That two-page spread is followed by a page with Herman’s portrait.

Herman will not be a household name like other giants in American fashion, but he’s actually dressed plenty of U.S. shoppers.

A Sandals Royal Curaçao cocktail server wears a Stan Herman-designed dress.

After working for a series of manufacturers and designers, he began his own label, which QVC has been selling for 30 years. Herman also has a strong uniform business that dates back to the ’70s, having suited up staff at TWA, McDonald’s, Avis, JetBlue, FedEx, Sandals Resorts and other firms. He continues to design for the latter two, amongst others just like the Central Park Conservancy, and suits up 300,000 FedEx employees alone. Tall order that that’s, Herman credited his longtime assistant and potential successor Michael Schwartz for keeping every little thing in check. “We do it easily. They rope me in, after they need me. Remember, I’m a designer not a manufacturer.”

In some ways, Herman’s profession trajectory mirrors the evolution of fashion from an elitist, closed-door society right into a more democratic, broad-sweeping view. “I’m very much about what has happened in fashion. I never thought of it in those terms,“ he said. “I never wanted to decorate the Vogue ladies. I wanted to decorate the Mademoiselle and Glamour ladies, who were younger, vibrant and more inquisitive about life.”

Despite having been beaned within the left eye with a tennis ball during certainly one of his twice-weekly matches, Herman was raring to go to Monday’s CFDA gala. He had gone to each last one since 1962. Why stop now?

Showing up may be very Herman-esque, whether that’s for CFDA board meetings, the Bryant Park Business Improvement District or the Garment District Alliance. His favorite CFDA gala was the primary (and widely bashed) one at Lincoln Center, which included some Pratt and Parsons students and was thought to have diminished the organization’s panache.

“My life is a really collective life. How extraordinary to be here at 95, to have walked into Seventh Avenue [in the ’50s], if you used to attend for the sun to be high above in order that the road was warm and the tailors could come down from their workplaces and ‘yenta’ before going back upstairs,” he said.

His early Seventh Avenue jobs included runs at Martini Design under Jerry Silverman, a stint working for Herbert Sondheim (father of the Broadway composer Stephen), Bill Blass, Oleg Cassini, Fira Benenson, and Mr. Mort, which is where he established himself. Onboarded in 1960, he took on the president role in 1965. When the corporate bottomed out, he lined up a financial backer, but the corporate faltered again in 1971. That led him to team up with Geraldine Stutz at Henri Bendel and to enterprise into loungewear, after which eventually, the wide world of uniforms.

Mention of any designer just about guarantees a story. The book is laced with them, including his monthlong trip to Japan with Rudi Gernreich. “I touched so many individuals, and I’m here to say it. Mainly, I must have been dead 10 years ago, but I’m still here to speak about these people,” he said. “My life form of represents the change. I used to be never called high fashion, but I knew those people. They were my friends.”

From his viewpoint, probably the most essential things that has happened in fashion is the establishment of the approach to life designer led by Ralph Lauren, in addition to Giorgio Armani to a certain degree. Herman singled out Thom Browne, who he said checked out the world and smiled, and everybody smiled back at him. Impulsively, he’s a way of life designer. “But there are few like that,” Herman said. “Michael [Kors] is carving out his area of interest.”

Less passionate about any young designers hitting the mark yet, Herman said, Lauren, Donna Karan and Calvin Klein “captured the marquis of design for America in a way that no one else did within the ’80s and ’90s. That’s an act that can never be replicated again. They gave American sportswear its pedestal. Annie Klein could be very completely satisfied because she predicted it could occur, and people three made it occur.”

He praised “the ABCs of fashion” like uniforms, Levi Strauss and Carhartt as being a few of the strengths of American fashion — the clothing that individuals wear and discover with. Within the book, he described Kenneth Cole as essentially the most political designer, and Anna Sui as an unsung one. All in all, the emergence of designers as singular personalities transformed the industry.

“So long as fashion makes money, it would exist and feed plenty of mouths for the remainder of our lives. It’ll be relevant. Whether or not people will probably be as inquisitive about clothing 50 years from today, I can’t predict but I don’t think they may,” Herman said.

Sometimes the designer “stops time,” taking a look at people and wondering if a photograph were taken, would the time when it was taken be evident 20 years from now. “To a certain degree, we’ve lost that pinpoint of time. It’s harder to know what 12 months clothes are. It was much easier years ago, when the principles were more restrictive. The do-your-own-thing eventually took over. The principles will probably be less, but people still want rules. We’re very insecure. Most designers are insecure, too,” he said.

“Remember, each time they do a group, they’re judged. Each time they exit, and the cameras are on them, if it’s not good, they don’t stay there,” he said. “That’s tough. So long as there’s that, there will probably be enough energy for the following generation to come back up and slap them down. It’s such a competitive thing. It’s like a sport.”

Crafting a book began after his partner of 40 years, Gene Horowitz, a author, died in 1991. Jotting down their vacation tales and travels (including airline-related work), Herman dubbed it “Notes and Sketches.”

He has all the time sketched every evening and he and Horowitz used to read aloud their nightly writings. The tome’s first incarnation didn’t take, so Herman stowed it away. Throughout the pandemic, leafing through Jan Morris’ memoir, written by Morris on the age of 92, Herman decided if Jan could do it, he could do it, too. Settling into his big red leather chair in his Southampton house, Herman put pen to paper, literally. Writing longhand, he began the draft early into the pandemic and wrapped it up six months ago with the assistance of agent Jane Lahr.

Stand Herman with a model on the cover of his memoir.

Stand Herman with a model on the quilt of his memoir.

The book sheds light on his 40-year union with Horowitz. “It was certainly one of those great loves. They write movies about those things, and you think that, ‘That’s bulls–t.’ But literally, it was love at first sight. We connected. To start with, we had to regulate to how we could be together. But after that adjustment, it was 40 years of a really close relationship.”

Like much of Herman’s life, there may be a backstory to their met-in-a-bar meet-cute in 1953. “I used to be at an orgy and the guy who was the star didn’t get off the plane from California until late. I said to everybody, ‘Let’s go to a bar and never sit around and mope.’ I walked in, and there was Gene, sitting there.”

His fashion destiny began because the child of a Recent Jersey store owner who sold silk and patterns to ladies. Macho and athletic as a teen, Herman immediately knew he would develop into a clothing designer, as boyhood scribblings document. “I don’t even know if I knew what that meant,” he said. “My father accepted it, which was unusual for a conservative Jewish gentleman. Normally, they need us to be doctors and lawyers.”

Not ready for Recent York, he decamped for the University of Cincinnati for design school and the town’s symphony orchestra, where he was “easily the star” and a fraternity president. Post-graduation, he aspired to be like Jacques Fath, at a time when Paris fashion was ascending thanks also to Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent. The primary American designer Herman fell for was Claire McCardell, followed by Norman Norell. Years later, Herman recognized Marc Jacobs’ budding talent as a high schooler and hired him as an apprentice.

“As I say within the book, it was called the dress business. We didn’t consider sportswear. That basically exploded within the late ’60s and early ’70s. Annie Klein and I used to have scotch thrice every week at Bill’s restaurant on fortieth Street that every one of the designers went to. She was very pioneering and told me she was going to do parts and pieces, tops and bottoms in numerous sizes that may be coordinated. The sportswear that we all know today that actually commands the spirit of designing in America flourished within the late ’50s and ’60s,” Herman said.

Journalist Elsa Klensch transformed fashion by going behind-the-scenes with designers on CNN, as did designers like Blass, Geoffrey Beene and Oscar de la Renta by taking more public roles owning their very own businesses versus working for a big manufacturer. “We became stars. Once our underwear was exposed. People liked it,” Herman said.

Thirty years into his QVC alliance, Herman works with a design team at his licensee the Comar Group. “I’ve written the book, I’m listening to music and playing tennis. What else can I do? I like working. But I even have loads of time to take heed to Mahler and Beethoven, go to the theater and to see my friends. That’s the great thing about a full life,” Herman said. “Years ago, when my father discovered that I used to be a homosexual, he was more concerned about whether I could be very lonely, once I got to be very old with none children or a wife to deal with me. I wish he was around to see what number of friends I even have, how many individuals who deal with me, and folks I deal with.”

Initially chronological, the book highlights his childhood, U.S. army service, love life, fashion profession and freelance before edging into more metaphysical territory, reminiscent of how he feels in regards to the Alps, Mahler, his show business profession, voices, current events and endings, as in the ultimate send-off. Drafted into the military for the Korean War, Herman said he feared being sent to Korea for “a war that shouldn’t be there. I used to be very lucky to be sent to Germany, which was very unusual for a young Jewish man five years after Auschwitz [was liberated.]”

Upon arrival in Germany, Herman had not been assigned to any barracks, platoon or battalion. “If you happen to were stationed in Europe, you needed to undergo the ‘repo depo,’ and three lecture series,” he said. “As a lecturer, I’d teach find out how to love the Germans and hate the Russians because that’s what was occurring.”

Other insights into his life include written remnants of a show business profession, including performing a part of the lead in “La bohème” on the Amoto Opera House, and recorded imitations of the Everly Brothers and other musicians. By his own ear, 15 years of singing lessons led to him sounding somewhat like Pavarotti, perhaps because he and the good tenor used the identical accompanist, he said. Still perched within the Bryant Park Studios at 80 West fortieth Street after 48 years, Herman plans to remain within the Beaux-Arts constructing that after housed Irving Penn, J.C. Leyendecker and other esteemed artists. Having seen how Bryant Park sprang to life over time and was now not somewhat rough around the perimeters, Herman was instrumental in relocating Recent York Fashion Week there under the tents in 1993.

In 1993, Recent York fashion shows were centralized under the seventh on Sixth banner and move to the tents in Bryant Park.

Herman, who said he rarely considers his legacy, said he hoped it could be that he loves his work and being a part of certainly one of our city’s great industries. “I’ve taken it seriously without burying myself in its complexity,” he said. “I don’t mean to sound that I’m higher or different from other people, but people all the time appear to like me. I don’t have too many enemies that I do know of.”

By his own account, certainly one of his strengths helming the CFDA was being so open to all and friendly. “There’s an energy that comes off of me. I look and sound younger than I’m. But when my life goes out, it would exit like everyone else’s,” he said.

Failures? Losing the Mr. Mort business and with it the potential of becoming certainly one of the “major, major names” in fashion. But such losses weren’t completely debilitating, due to his healthy and varied home life, he said. “So perhaps once I lost things, I didn’t lose them in the identical way that other people did. The imprint of my fashion is one tiny little blip. It just isn’t what Oscar, Ralph or Tory [Burch] have done. But that blip is robust enough for me to remain relevant and never be eaten up by the system.”

Mentioning that the QVC contract has just been prolonged for 2 years, Herman laughed, “Once I take heed to myself talk, I believe, ‘I’m an idiot — I’m crazy.”

Despite having once done a 24-hour marathon on QVC, Herman now mostly Skypes in his appearances, but he’ll take the trip to Pennsylvania for the occasional appearance. “QVC is an enchanting method to sell you wares, because you understand immediately whether what you’ve done is appropriate. On QVC they either love you or hate you. If you happen to do something they hate, they’ll let you know, ‘How could you do this? Your sleeves are too short.’”

Pointless to say, Herman has no plans for retirement. “Not at this point — I’ve got the studio, my beautiful house [in the Hamptons] and my beautiful apartment. I like the town of Recent York. Before I am going, I would love to return to the Alps and yodel within the Alps again.”

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