Oré Otun still vividly recalls the moment she learned about Fenty Beauty’s foundation release in the autumn of 2017. “I remember begging the guy I used to be dating to take me to get it because I didn’t have a automotive. I used to be so hype,” she says. The Houston-based beauty content creator’s unbridled excitement stemmed from the shortage of representation for dark-skinned women and infrequently feeling categorically ignored by major beauty brands. 

Thankfully, Rihanna kept Otun, and others like her, in mind when crafting the Pro Filt’r Soft Matte Longwear Foundation. Even though it was not the primary makeup brand to release deep shades generally, Fenty did so during their first launch as a latest brand– as a substitute of doing it over time. And since its inception our favourite bad gal has been vocal about the importance of making makeup for everybody. The brand’s industry-disrupting hero product launched with over 40 wide-ranging shades, making it one of the most inclusive first releases in the wonder space. This actually marked a change in tide for a lot of dark-skinned Black women.

Similarly, “I remember being in shock,” says beauty content creator Beyonce Janvier. She adds that prior to the Fenty drop, she never put much stock find a foundation that matched her skin. She would typically must buy multiple shades to combine together in hopes of concocting an accurate shade. “I never knew I even had an undertone or really cared about finding my perfect shade until [Fenty Beauty],” says Janvier. 

Not having to play cosmetic chemist is an unchallengeable win. The discharge of the Fenty foundation was a blessing not only to complexions at large but wallets in every single place. Latest York-based content creator Christina Abiola says that before Fenty, the one brands that carried her shade were luxury beauty houses that boasted pretty hefty price tags. Comparatively, Fenty’s foundations range from $22-$40.

And with nearly 60 total shades, expansive coverage variations and countless awards in innovation, Fenty Beauty has undeniably modified not only the best way we shop but how other makeup brands launch, release, and revamp their very own products. This reality is quaintly known as “The Fenty Effect,” by industry insiders. Lately, big-name players– similar to L’Oréal, Maybelline and CoverGirl– all carry not less than 40 shades.

But even still, nowadays, “some brands will come out with foundations, after which say, ‘Oh, we’re going to give you the darker shades later,’” says Otun. This rhetoric can be applied to any number of brands. Only in the near past, Youthforia, faced the same discrepancy with the discharge of their Date Night Skin Tint. The supposedly “protected to sleep in” foundation faced major backlash on TikTok for his or her lack of shade range and what some are describing as false promoting regarding their imaging online. The CEO, Fiona Co Chan, responded in a TikTok video stating that the initial release was only a “proof of concept,” and so they had deeper skin tones within the works. “I appreciate the gesture of the shade extensions and stuff, but it surely still hurts to be an afterthought,” says beauty and lifestyle content creator Jasmine Adetunji.

This issue extends beyond the realm of content creation as well, because of the role beauty brands play in setting societal standards, says Abiola. “A whole lot of us grow up wanting to feel beautiful. When brands cannot even include us, it’s like we’re not even a component of the usual,” says Abiola. “They’re essentially saying we should not even a component of the wonder spectrum, which may be very hurtful,” says Abiola. Siphoning such a big portion of your consumer base is ironic as, in line with a 2022 MBS Intelligence study, Black consumers spend a median of $1.2 trillion on beauty products annually.

Even within the makeup PR boxes they receive– a possibility for brands to tap into these underserved audiences– many creators say they’re still receiving inaccurate shade matches. Some have even noticed patterns of what they describe as purposeful exclusion from certain gifting opportunities. “A whole lot of brands send me other products…but not their foundations,” says Abiola. “I feel we all know why.”

Other creators say that while they receive pretty decent shade matches of their PR boxes, it is usually the brand’s darkest foundation. “And I’m not even the darkest person on the market. In order that’s really scary to take into consideration,” says Adetunji.

It’s also price mentioning that, for newer or smaller creators, it might be daunting to challenge these beloved corporations, especially when their backing will be vital to profession longevity. “It got to some extent where I used to be really quiet about certain things once I began monetizing my content,” says Abiola. As a dark-skinned creator, it’s difficult enough without the added fear of jeopardizing future brand deals. 

Having to fret about whether or not a brand could have your shade also takes away from the fun of what ought to be an exciting time in makeup and wonder innovation. “As any individual who loves makeup and loves trying out latest products, it’s heartbreaking to not give you the option to take part in the thrill that other people get to take part in because your shade just isn’t considered,” says Adetunji.

So, where can we go from here? For a lot of content creators, the reply is kind of easy. “We should always go where we’re loved,” says Otun. “There are brands who include us and once we sit and we talk in regards to the brands that don’t it does a disservice for our community,” explains Otun. 

Conversely, some creators say speaking out is the one strategy to hold these brands accountable. In either regard, one thing stays consistent amongst content creators and consumers alike: the post-backlash apology videos and public statements of guarantees to do higher aren’t any longer going to chop it.

TLDR: It’s time for brands to get off the apps and within the lab!