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20 Dec

The Godfather of Denim, Adriano Goldschmied, Takes a Page

Nearly 50 years ago, Adriano Goldschmied, a young and comparatively inexperienced denim guy, decided to launch his first premium blue jeans brand called Each day Blue.

His strategy was to take his latest creation, launched in 1974, and sell it within the northern Italian ski resort of Cortina d’Ampezzo, often known as one of the fashionable and expensive ski stations in Italy where jet-setters and celebrities frolicked. 

Goldschmied, who had a small store on the town, was selling his jeans for the reminiscent of what today can be $1,000. The jeans were manufactured from quality denim and well-constructed.

The newly minted designer was unsure how his product would perform, but he knew he had a winner when French actress Brigitte Bardot spotted the blue jeans and purchased a pair. “The concept of a complicated product and premium denim for me began at the moment, to make something different and unique,” recalled the fabled blue jeans maker, now in his late 70s.

After that, Goldschmied went on to cofound Diesel with Renzo Rosso, who took over the label in 1985, leaving Rosso a billionaire today.

Goldschmied continued along his own path, creating many denim labels including AG Adriano Goldschmied, now owned by Los Angeles denim manufacturer Koos Manufacturing. He also began A. Gold E., Gold Sign, Gap1969 and lots of others. After moving to the USA in 1998 and settling in southern California, he became a partner at Los Angeles premium denim brand Residents of Humanity until he left in 2014. Recently, he helped Chloé develop its first circular jeans.

Goldschmied jokes that he has probably began greater than 50 brands after which stepped away. But he is sort of a serial inventor who likes to think up latest concepts and moves on. “What I do the most effective in all my profession is to create brands. It’s like playing a game. Once I know I’m a winner, I walk away,” he explained.

A denim jacket by Each day Blue. Photo courtesy Each day Blue

With so many labels under his belt, his motto was to not repeat what he had done before and just move forward. But talking with a friend at dinner one night, the conversation drifted to Each day Blue, and the blue-jeans designer recalled his passion creating that first brand. “I remembered that enthusiasm after I began my profession,” he recalled. “I didn’t go to any design school. Nothing. I didn’t know anything about this business. The one thing I knew was what the delicate customer was on the lookout for.”

That dinner conversation hit a soft spot in his heart. Going against his longtime rule, he decided to relaunch Each day Blue using Japanese fabrics, eco-friendly washes and coverings and straightforward but sophisticated looks that may sit in someone’s closet for years. “I don’t design extreme fashion,” the denim guru shared. “I wish to see a girl who cleans out a closet and doesn’t throw away my jeans.”

The brand’s reiteration, which ships in January for spring 2023, is being manufactured in small batches at three Los Angeles garment factories and treated at a sustainable wash house called Star Fades International in the commercial Los Angeles suburb of Commerce.

The ’70s-inspired luxury denim women’s collection right away consists of 18 to twenty pieces including blue jeans, shirts, jackets, vests and overalls, selling for $350 to $450. “I think in small things made well,” Goldschmied noted.

Adriano Goldschmied on the ground where his latest blue jeans are being treated. Photo by Deborah Belgum

The washes and coverings, unlike the highly distressed looks of the past, are toned down with the slightest hint of whiskering done with an eco-friendly laser processing.

For his first batch, Goldschmied ordered 2,000 pairs of blue jeans, 300 jackets and 200 shirts. He prefers to do small but more frequent collections that appeal to his luxury shopper who’s in stores regularly.

For those customers, retailers need to alter their merchandise more often to maintain people coming in. “If you shop, you go to a store to not only buy something but additionally to have some form of emotion,” the designer said.

The blue jeans silhouettes in the brand new Each day Blue label will range from baggy and flared to wide-bodied and straight-leg.

When the designer created his first brand, he targeting the look. This time, he wants an incredible look that also incorporates sustainable elements and premium fabrics that’s more eco-friendly. “On the time we began the primary Each day Blue, we didn’t have that sense of what we were doing,” Goldschmied said. “We were using any product simply to make a jean nice. It could be a bleach, a toxic acid, no person was caring then. Then within the early ’90s, I began to understand that we were doing something very unsuitable. And at the moment, I used to be a voice within the desert.”

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