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27 Sep

Victoria Beckham on the Return of the Short Skirt,

LONDON — It’s a moment of metamorphosis for Victoria Beckham and she or he’s marking it by staging her first runway show in Paris, on the Seventeenth-century church and monastery of Val-de-Grâce within the fifth arrondissement, where her old friend Kim Jones set the Dior men’s spring 2023 show earlier this yr.  

The changes have been coming at full speed. Earlier this yr Beckham hired a latest design director, Lara Barrio, and launched accessories and body lines.

Last summer, together with the corporate’s chief executive officer Marie Leblanc, she rejigged her business strategy, combining the Victoria Victoria Beckham and fundamental line collections and slashing the common price point of the gathering.

“It’s all the time been a dream of mine to point out in Paris,” said Beckham during a preview of her spring 2023 collection here. “And it’s the proper time. It’s a robust brand moment, and I’m very, very excited.”

The Paris show venue is spectacular. For the show in June, Dior created an actual lawn, with 1000’s of plants, contained in the venue and added smaller-scale reproductions of Christian Dior’s childhood home in Granville, France, and Charleston, the countryside property in England that’s synonymous with the Bloomsbury Group.

Although Beckham didn’t go into detail about her set, it’s certain to be special. “It appears like an actual moment where we’re going to be giving our existing customer what she wants. But I believe we’re reaching out to a younger audience as well,” she said.

A mood board.


She’s upping those hemlines and going short again, with numerous ruffled minis and knits with skirts covered in long shiny tassels, the latter of which also appear on shoulder bags.

“I’ve got a whole lot of younger members on the design team who’ve influenced the gathering and we’re still respecting the design codes” and offbeat color mixes, said Beckham. “I haven’t worn short for a very long time and I need to wear it in a latest, fresh way.”

The gathering is lighter, and younger, compared with past seasons. It’s also slightly sexier. Under the brand new designer the main focus has shifted away from all of the tailoring, and generous proportions, to skinnier, more bodycon silhouettes, although “there’s an actual ease concerning the collection,” said Beckham.

There’s a sheer story happening, too, and the team has gone big on layering, with latex pieces and lacy underpinnings.

Beckham has created VB logo tights, bras, underpants — or knickers, because the Brits say — to layer under dresses and transparent pieces.

The emblem underwear, she said, is different from the VB Body collection, a everlasting capsule she launched earlier this yr that gives leggings, curvy dresses and bodysuits.  

For spring 2023, she’s using those lacy pieces — and latex — for long gloves or for layering under romantic dresses with ruffles or ruching on the front.

“It’s very sheer, and there’s an actual nod to the Nineteen Nineties with the styling,” said Beckham.

Tailoring, all the time a pillar of the Beckham brand, also gets the sheer treatment this season. On one transparent red suit, the seaming, shoulder pads and pocket linings are in full view.

Beckham has rejoiced with trompe l’oeil, too, similar to a leather jacket with flat lapels bonded to the front, or a pair of black jeans covered with a contrasting x-ray-like print.

She’s shaken up her runway squad, tapping the makeup artist Diane Kendal and Duffy for hair. Kendal can be using Victoria Beckham beauty products, so the look can be one hundred pc on brand.

Beckham is making changes on other fronts, too. She’s set to launch her seventh, and final, collection with Reebok and is searching for a latest partner in activewear.

“It’s sad that is the last collection, but I believe we’ve proven there’s space for us. I believe that Reebok has been a giant success. I work out day-after-day and wish to look good within the gym. I test-wear every thing, and I do know what’s missing out there,” said Beckham.

“So we’re onto the following chapter, and I’m excited. Although I don’t know who I’ll be [partnering] with, I’m looking forward to what’s next,” she added.

She’s also savoring the present moment.

Beckham said that, in the course of the pandemic, she was sitting in Miami and wishing she’d enjoyed the technique of putting on big shows.

“You may get so caught up on this pressure. But I said that if I’m lucky enough to do one other show, I might really enjoy it. And I even have really enjoyed working with my team. In fact there’s a whole lot of pressure, but I feel so lucky, not only to be showing in Paris but to be doing a show as an independent brand with the entire obstacles of the pandemic,” she said.

She’s not the one Beckham feeling that sense of gratitude, and community.

Earlier this month David Beckham made headlines when he joined the long line of individuals hoping to pay tribute to Queen Elizabeth II in the course of the five days she lay in state at Westminster Hall.

He waited 14 hours in the road, and was considered one of an estimated 250,000 individuals who paid their respects. He refused to leap the road, said Victoria, who watched the funeral on TV along with her husband last week. 

“We were all so pleased with him and there was little question in his mind about doing it. He was invited to leap to the front but he said it just didn’t feel right. He said it was a shared experience, the experience of mourning. And he met some really amazing people, too.”

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