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30 Jan

Zadig & Voltaire RTW Fall 2023

Zadig & Voltaire lit up Poush, an art exhibition space within the Paris suburbs, for its latest runway show.

Guests made the trek to the gallery on the outskirts, where the contemporary brand erected a fountain center stage for a fashion show and party to showcase its fall collection, under the creative direction of Cecilia Bönström.

It was a centerpiece that guest Ed Westwick called “pretty spectacular” because it went up in flames.

The theme was “freedom,” Bönström said backstage after the show, however it also took a match to last season’s softer boho chic with a moto-infused collection.

Bönström all the time goals for a rock ‘n’ roll edge, and this season the Swedish designer toughed up with racing motifs. She was inspired by photos of vintage automobile seats and racing suits and brought in those references with cherry red and numerous leather. That brilliant pop of color dotted a mostly monochrome collection, in a body-hugging turtleneck dress and a Grecian mini.

Bönström’s tackle the moto suit was made with a more casual, feminine flair, leading to drapey leather trousers and slouchy leather jackets each with color-blocked design in petrol blue and in classic black. Among the tougher looks were paired with open-toed sandals, while delicate dresses topped stomper boots as a study in contrast.

Bönström also revisited the oversize boyfriend T-shirt as a leather shift, and elsewhere experimented with textiles in crinkled leather, recycled cashmere on a honeycomb singlet — one other nod to vintage bucket seats — and used 100% merino wool on knits.

Throughout the show female and male models wore the identical looks in succession, emphasizing the brand’s approach to gender-fluid basics. The brand also debuted a latest bag called “Moon Rock” in a half-moon shape as a nod to an evening out.

The fountain display also mired the show in controversy, as artist Julian Charrière called out the brand for copying his work just hours before the show. In a post on Instagram and in a press release sent to journalists, Charrière identified the brand’s pre-show visuals bore a striking similarity to his 2019 work “And Beneath It All Flows Liquid Fire.”

He added that he had not been contacted by the brand to be used of the artwork.

In a press release released to WWD, the brand denied any similarity. “Zadig & Voltaire’s ‘fire fountain’ is an independent creation of the brand for its fall 2023 show. Inspired by sound and pyrotechnics effects in French gardens, La Concorde fountains in Paris, generations of artists, the ‘fire fountain’ was conceptualized by Zadig & Voltaire. Symbolizing the inner burning freedom inside us all, ‘fire fountain’ showcases the blazing, daring and unfettered confidence of the Zadig & Voltaire believer,” the corporate said.

The front row was full of Westwick, Sky Ferreira, Alexa Chung, Luna Blaise and many on-trend “nepo babies” including Carmen Kassovitz, Ella Richards and Maddie Jean Waterhouse, all of whom have big social media followings.

Former “Gossip Girl” star Westwick reacted to the news that the reboot has been canceled after two seasons. “I don’t know if I’m sad, but a bit bit surprised,” he said. “But some things don’t catch fire. There’s lots of attempting to bring bring back old things. It happens quite loads in Hollywood and sometimes it really works and sometimes it doesn’t.”

Westwick has been concentrating on his newly formed band For You. The group released its first single “Tailspin” Jan. 23 and are working on an album he hopes to tour with later this yr. “I’m a performer, that’s what I do, so gotta keep performing. Keeps the demons away,” he joked.

The hearth, too, remained contained before guests made their way back out into the chilly winter night.

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