MILAN — Balmain’s first wonderful jewelry corner in Italy opened within the brand’s boutique in Milan’s Via Montenapoleone on Thursday, ahead of town’s Design Week.

The gathering was launched within the spring of 2022.

“This signals the importance of Milan for the brand and its relevant position globally,” said Rosario Toscano, chief executive officer of Adorisa Group, which produces the jewellery, and of Akoni Group. Toscano was named to the role in January 2023, succeeding François Delage.

A latest space dedicated to the brand’s jewelry is placed on the bottom floor of the boutique with window displays in contrasting black and gold.

The Milan store opened in April 2018, also before Design Week, covering 3,024 square feet over two floors.

For the boutique, creative director Olivier Rousteing worked with three young architects from Paris’ Studio AMV — Anna Philippou, Marie-Charlotte Prosperi-Fouchard and Victoire Guerlay — re-creating a hôtel particulier for the shop, specializing in the Parisian roots of the brand.

Toscano said the gathering thus far has been selectively distributed, first launched within the Recent York and Paris Balmain boutiques, but revealed that it would even be available on the brand’s Shanghai and Los Angeles stores by the tip of the 12 months, after some renovation of the units.

The goal is to expand “and are available out of the Balmain boutiques,” said Toscano, while remaining exclusive, eyeing about 200 doors on the earth.

The gathering is currently distributed through six online partners, from Net-a-porter to Farfetch, and 18 doors of specialty stores in countries corresponding to the U.S., Canada and the U.K.

Balmain’s wonderful jewelry is made in French laboratories, with ethical, recycled 18-karat gold, conflict-free and traceable precious stones, underscored Toscano. To further grow this segment, he’s planning so as to add some production sites in Italy’s storied goldsmith hub of Valenza.  

He also revealed that Balmain will introduce white gold pieces for the subsequent holiday season. “There may be a robust request,” explained Toscano, “and we’re planning a deeper penetration within the category.”

The chief said jewelry is “very appealing to the younger generations, who aren’t that acquainted with established and storied jewelry specialists.” Toscano also contended that the segment is attractive to existing Balmain customers, who already know the brand and its signature designs. “Jewelry is increasingly an integral a part of the brand,” he said.

To make sure, the daring designs are entirely in sync with Rousteing’s style and fashion sense and Toscano emphasized the designer’s involvement within the category — as within the eyewear collections.

The Emblem collection stands out with its yellow gold, diamonds, onyx and tsavorites from Africa, which refers back to the Balmain coat of arms, the 2 winged lions and the crown, and the masterful embroideries of certainly one of Rousteing’s most influential runways, the Fabergé collection of 2012.

An Emblem cuff retails at 31,000 euros.

The Labyrinth collection reproduces the pattern first introduced in 1970 and originally inspired by the intricate mazes of France’s Renaissance gardens. The motif blends the initials of the home founder right into a repetitive geometry. Fashioned from yellow gold and set with diamonds, the Labyrinth cuff, for instance, retails at 16,000 euros.

Entry prices for rings range from 2,350 to 2,500 euros.

Bracelets and necklaces embellished with onyx beads are the brand’s bestsellers, said Toscano. He also noted how Rousteing has been successfully selling the concept of the only earring.

Toscano said Rousteing is succeeding in “combining the history of the brand with more contemporary elements.”

Before joining Akoni, Toscano was global managing director of Dita Eyewear where he was chargeable for all facets of the Dita and Thom Browne eyewear brands.

Adorisa Group was established in Paris in 2021, helmed by Delage, a former De Beers jewelry CEO.

Led by Delage and Albert Bensoussan, previously CEO of the luxurious watches and jewellery division at Kering, Adorisa is an element of Alsara Investments Group, whose holdings includes Akoni, the maker of Balmain and Valentino eyewear.

Alsara Investment Group was founded by Rachid Mohamed Rachid, who can be CEO of Mayhoola, the owner of Balmain and of Valentino.