SOUTHERN COMFORT: After bucking expectations with a show on the Palace of Versailles, Simon Porte Jacquemus is on the brink of pack his bags for an additional trip to more familiar territory: the South of France.

The designer will stage his next show on Jan. 29 on the Fondation Maeght within the village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence, the brand said on Monday. 

Established by Marguerite and Aimé Maeght in 1964, the private foundation — designed by Catalan architect Josep Lluís Sert — houses artworks by the likes of Georges Braque, Marc Chagall, Wassily Kandinsky, Alberto Giacometti and Joan Miró.

“The gathering is known as ‘Les Sculptures’ in homage to Giacometti’s work,” Jacquemus said in a press release shared exclusively with WWD. The Fondation Maeght previously hosted Louis Vuitton’s cruise 2019 show.

In line with its recent tradition of showing outside the official calendar, Jacquemus is staging its display after the top of the Paris men’s shows, which run from Jan. 16 to 21, and Paris Couture Week, scheduled for Jan. 22 to 25.

Jacquemus has amplified its reach on social media due to cinematic runway displays in spectacular locations including a lavender field and a salt mine, often within the South of France. This can mark the designer’s first winter show in his native Provence.

The show on the Grand Canal at Versailles in June was a part of a brand elevation strategy that features plans for a global retail rollout, but Jacquemus stays closely related to a Mediterranean aesthetic and accessible products resembling 100-euro bucket hats and 670-euro Chiquito handbags. 

Along with opening a flagship on Avenue Montaigne and summer pop-ups in Portofino and Como, Italy, and Saint-Tropez, the corporate is scouting for everlasting locations within the U.S. and the Middle East, with plans to open several stores overseas by 2026, its chief executive officer Bastien Daguzan told WWD in June.

Jacquemus posted gross revenues of 212 million euros in 2022 versus 102 million euros in 2021, he reported. Daguzan declined to supply a forecast for 2023, but previously said the corporate has a medium-term ambition of reaching 500 million euros in revenues by 2025. — JOELLE DIDERICH

HIGHEST BIDS WIN: 4 of bankrupt Amyris’ beauty brands have been sold at auction to the very best bidders.

In accordance with court documents, skincare brand Biossance has been sold to online beauty retailer THG Beauty, formerly generally known as The Hut Group, for $20 million. THG owns online retailers including Cult Beauty and Lookfantastic, and types resembling Perricone MD and Espa.

Centered around Amyris’ star ingredient, squalane, Biossance has long been considered one of the best brand on its roster and the almost certainly to seek out a buyer.

Elsewhere, Scent Theory Products paid $600,000 for 4U by Tia, launched in partnership with Tia Mowry to meet the needs of those with 2A through 4C hair textures by providing a streamlined assortment of need-based products. 

Dr. Reddy’s Labs paid $3 million for Menolabs,  a women’s health and technology company that gives probiotics for ladies in perimenopause, menopause and midlife.

And HRB Brands paid $1.75 million for clean baby care brand Pipette.

Amyris, a onetime biotech darling that sought to alter the wonder industry with revolutionary and sustainable ingredients and later moved into the celebrity brand world, filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy in a Delaware Court in August.

As of yet there was no word on a few of its other brands on the market, including Naomi Watts’ menopausal beauty brand Stripes, color cosmetics line Rose Inc. with model Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, and hair care brand JVN with “Queer Eye” star Jonathan Van Ness.

In October, Francisco Costa, the previous Calvin Klein designer, bid to pay $350,000 for his brand Costa Brazil. Prior to this, Amyris revealed that it might be shuttering the brand.

Throughout the same month, Onda Beauty cofounder Larissa Thomson won a web-based auction for the Tribeca lease, the corporate name, website and products in store. Onda was founded by Thomson, Watts and Sarah Bryden-Brown, but later acquired by Amyris. — KATHRYN HOPKINS

L.A. CHRISTMAS: It wasn’t a Dior Carousel of Dreams on Fifth Avenue, however it was a celebration nonetheless.

On Thursday night, Saks Fifth Avenue chief executive officer Marc Metrick hosted celebrities, clients, influencers and designers for a vacation dinner at hot spot Funke in L.A.

Wearing a Dior suit (bought at full price, he laughed), Metrick was beaming in regards to the latest Beverly Hills store as a consequence of open within the old Barneys Latest York location on Feb. 8.

“That is such a very important marketplace for Saks….I’m so grateful to be here with you guys. Certainly one of the opposite reasons I’m here is to ascertain in on slightly project we’re working on,” he said, toasting the group. “I used to be there today, it’s going to be unbelievable,” he added of the ladies’s store relocating from its current location to a latest home at 9570 Wilshire Boulevard, with an expanded space dedicated to non-public shopping and styling.

The night began with signature Saks cocktails on the rooftop where fashion plate Mary Martin, wearing a Jason Wu coat, and husband Dave Martin caught up with Metrick and recapped their trip to Formula 1 in Las Vegas. Jonathan Simkhai, who’s busy in search of a latest design headquarters, having outgrown his La Cienega Boulevard space, chatted holiday plans, which involve staying near home.

Guests brought it within the glam department — Kiernan Shipka in a strapless pink Oscar de la Renta cocktail dress and Stephanie Hsu in a Thom Browne corseted tuxedo look. Dinner was served in a non-public room at the brand new Evan Funke Italian restaurant, where Erin and Sara Foster, Nicky Hilton Rothschild, Kathy Hilton and Tina Craig enjoyed focaccia, pizza and pasta while wondering where the yr had gone for the reason that last Saks holiday dinner at Caviar Kaspia. — BOOTH MOORE

A CENTURY OF SEX: Maude is exploring 100 years of history at the brand new Museum of Sex. 

The Museum of Sex opened its second location in Miami on Friday. The flagship opened in Latest York City in 2002. 

Maude founder Éva Goicochea and inventive director and actress Dakota Johnson have curated an exhibit called “Modern Sex: 100 Years of Design and Decency,” which opened on the museum this past weekend. The gathering, which incorporates greater than 500 artifacts, explores restrictions around sexual wellness dating back to the Nineteen Twenties. The exhibit is organized by decade.

“It’s a little bit of a twilight zone to think about how far we’ve come and yet by no means,” Goicochea said. “It’s full circle. Within the Nineteen Twenties, that they had to code numerous their language.” 

Since Maude’s inception, Goicochea has also faced restrictions.

“We will’t advertise devices. If we try they need to be with this silly language,” she said. “We’re still so restricted, obviously, in other ways in latest technology and latest media, but same thing.”

Although Goicochea and Johnson had been mulling over this idea for awhile, it wasn’t all the time going to be an exhibit. 

“Dakota and I had originally talked about this as a [coffee table] book,” Goicochea said. “We mainly put together this big document saying we desired to explore what this has looked like over the past 100 years.” 

Goicochea and Johnson brought the proposal to the Museum of Sex about two years ago and started working on the project from there. Nevertheless, the team noted the coffee table concept might come to fruition in the future, as well. 

While walking through the exhibit, which was cosponsored by Maude, Durex and KY, guests will explore media, advertisements and products from each decade — think books, iterations of devices, vintage Playboy magazines and more.

“Something happens while you see physical objects that represent what happened historically,” Johnson said. “I hope that individuals walk away considering what their opinion about their very own sexual wellness is and that of others, the way it’s evolved on the earth or the way it’s not evolved, and the way it’s still represented the identical ways because it has been within the last 100 years.” 

One key artifact within the exhibit is the 1976 “The Hite Report,” a book by reporter Shere Hite that explores findings around women’s sexuality from hundreds of survey respondents. In tandem with the exhibit, a documentary titled “The Disappearance of Shere Hite” was recently released. (Johnson is an executive producer and the narrator of the film.)

“The documentary is about Shere Hite and the way she was mainly completely blotted out of history and totally silenced when she was presenting quantifiable data about female sexuality and feminine orgasm,” Johnson said. “It’s kind of fantastic that these two things coincided to exist concurrently.”

Goicochea and Johnson also selected to focus on gender inequity across the category and a long time within the exhibit.

“Now, 100 years later, you’ll be able to advertise erectile dysfunction pills, but you’ll be able to’t advertise a vibrator utilized by a girl. It’s pretty maddening,” Goicochea said. “My hope is that when people view this after which when it does develop into a coffee table book, people will realize how much we have now to do and it’s as much as us culturally as consumers and folks to to demand change.”

The exhibit will likely be on display on the Museum of Sex in Miami through summer 2024. — EMILY BURNS

MARKING TEN: With its tenth anniversary coming up in 2024, Lisa Yang, the Stockholm-based cashmere brand, is partnering with Bergdorf Goodman on an in-store installation opening Monday. The Latest York pop-up is the primary and will likely be followed by a roll-out in key European cities in Germany, Sweden and Switzerland.

Featuring brushed stainless-steel, cherry wood and rice paper, the installation is designed to emulate the brand’s showroom at company headquarters in Stockholm and draws on founder Lisa Yang’s Chinese heritage combined with a Scandinavian aesthetic. The Bergdorf’s pop-up will likely be open until Jan. 3 and can showcase an exclusive eight-piece capsule collection, specifically designed by Bergdorf’s, in addition to key pieces from the spring 2024 collection. The in-store launch will likely be supported by digital and social content on Bergdorf’s channels.

“We’re delighted to be in Latest York and start our 10-year celebrations in America at the distinguished Bergdorf Goodman, a longtime partner of Lisa Yang’s. The U.S. market may be very necessary to us as a brand and we look ahead to showcasing our exclusive capsule and installation, engaging with each our existing customers and potential latest customers in store,” said Lisa Yang, who founded the corporate with Samuel Stenberg.

Over the past three years, Lisa Yang has seen sales increase by greater than 900 percent, driven by each wholesale growth, with partners resembling Mytheresa, Net-a-porter and Matches, and its own e-commerce. The U.S. is Yang’s fastest-growing market, followed by Germany and Switzerland.

Yang has a planned rollout with key European stockists including Lodenfrey in Germany, Bon Genie in Switzerland and NK Stockholm, which is about to be confirmed.

Designed in Stockholm and produced in Inner Mongolia, Yang launched her namesake brand in 2014. The corporate’s GOTS-certified collection offers a whole ready-to-wear cashmere wardrobe for men and women, in addition to homeware.

Yang’s retail prices start at $130 for a cashmere plain knit arm warmers and go as much as $1,815 for a seven-gauge double-faced cashmere coat in ready-to-wear and $2,820 for a double-faced cashmere blanket. — LISA LOCKWOOD

NEW HOME: Signorvino is bringing Italian food and wine excellence to the French capital.

Controlled by the Calzedonia Group, the wine label crossed national borders to open in Paris on Friday. The brand new store is positioned in Place Saint Michel, a number of steps from the Notre-Dame Cathedral.

The 7,560-square-foot Signorvino space covers three floors and features an out of doors area as well. The situation seats 160 guests and is an element of the “Journey Across Flavours” project began by the brand in 2023 on the wine trade show Vinitaly. 

The primary store outside of Italy debuted in Prague, Czech Republic, on Nov. 9, on the Westfield Chodov shopping mall. 

In each cities, the menu pays tribute to Italy’s traditions with a gastronomic offering based on cutting boards, cured meats, focaccias for aperitifs, to call a number of, adding Italian specialities like lasagna alla Bolognese or beef tartare for lunch and dinner. The cellar has greater than 2,000 wines and Champagne.

“In Paris, we’ll offer a various choice of Champagne without deviating from our concept. As for the wine and food offering, we’ll keep counting on our suppliers, as we imagine that the distinctiveness and authenticity of Italian cuisine are key aspects for fulfillment,” said Federico Veronesi, owner of Signorvino along with his family. 

The project was conceived as a journey by which to capture the stories and flavors of Italian viticulture. “Viaggio nel gusto” is Signorvino’s manifesto, an idea that “allows us to specific our enthusiasm in exploring Italy’s incredible gastronomic heritage,” Veronesi remarked.

Calzedonia Group, founded by chairman Sandro Veronesi, controls also the Calzedonia, Intimissimi and Tezenis labels in addition to knitwear brand Falconeri, bridal line Atelier Emé. In September last yr, it bought an 80 percent stake within the Antonio Marras brand. — ANDREA ONATE

SKIING IN: DKNY Tech will introduce its first ski capsule, a mash-up of performance skiwear, downtown street style and sport accessories.

The 30-piece skiwear collection spans outerwear styles made with recycled fill, body-contoured ski suits and flared ski pants backed with fleece and treated with a water-repellant finish, and warm, insulating merino wool sweaters featuring graphic stripes.

The print contains a futuristic mountain scene inspired by the Northern Lights that appears across outerwear and leggings. The gathering’s color scheme includes neon green, ultra-violet, powder pink and glacial blues, together with the classic DKNY scheme of black and white.

Prices range from $48 to $399.

The gathering is rounded out with snow boots in daring colours, oversized ski masks and eyewear.

The limited-edition DKNY Tech ski capsule will likely be available globally on DKNY.com and in domestic, international and shops Monday.

DKNY Tech’s virtual shop on Zepeto, the interactive social platform, will feature six items, including the ski jacket, sleek black snowsuit, season’s ski sweater with snow pants, in addition to gradient gray sunglasses and white snow boots. — L.L.

FIT PRIZE WINNERS: The winners of FIT’s second annual Pete Prize for Entrepreneurs are FIT grads Habin Lee, Technical Design ’23, and Mary Addison Davis, Fashion Design ’23. Their business is named Ranea: Courage to Move, which manufactures and sells athleticwear that facilitates proper muscle movements and reduces stress for chronic injuries for men and girls.

Chosen from amongst 96 applications, Lee and Davis will receive $30,000, together with office space for one yr and marketing, legal, financial, creative and operational guidance on easy methods to construct and launch an revolutionary company. They received their award at a breakfast at Spring Place in Latest York on Thursday.

“What’s really necessary for Ranea is to advertise and to recollect the enjoyment of getting an energetic lifestyle without getting injured,” said Lee.

By incorporating compression garment technology in its designs, Ranea goals to stabilize major core muscle areas to forestall injuries. “I began developing the concept once I was affected by sciatica earlier this yr,” said Lee. “I used to be hoping that there have been garments that might give me enough stabilization to maneuver, yet wouldn’t limit my movements like braces. [Kinesiology tape] was a great temporary solution, however it was too irritating to my skin and really disposable. Ranea started off of my desperation for comfort and performance.”

Lee and David plan to make use of the $30,000 to construct a powerful foundation for the corporate, starting with solid garment prototypes.

The Pete Prize is inspired by Peter G. Scotese, chairman emeritus of the FIT board of trustees and an entrepreneur. Seed funding was provided by Edwin Goodman, former chair of the FIT board of trustees, and a partner of Activate Enterprise Partners, and was matched by Laurence C. Leeds Jr., of L Leeds Holding LLC and a member of the FIT Foundation, together with Jay Baker, former president of Kohl’s Department Stores, former FIT trustee and former chair of the FIT Foundation.

The Pete Prize is run by the FIT DTech Lab as a jury-picked merit award competition, which recognizes excellence in the event of ideas which might be envisioned through execution-focused business plans that exhibit revolutionary, design-oriented pondering. — L.L.