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5 Jun

Jonathan Simkhai to Launch Men’s Collection

Jonathan Simkhai to Launch Men’s Collection

Jonathan Simkhai has shown a number of patience and perseverance since starting his luxury women’s ready-to-wear brand 13 years ago.

The now-bicoastal designer began learning the ropes of the style industry on the age of 11 when he worked at a sweater outlet. At 14, he became an assistant buyer at a neighborhood boutique in his native Recent York.

After highschool, he attended each Parsons and the Fashion Institute of Technology — although he admits that he failed out of Parsons and never finished his studies at FIT — and leaned heavily on his experience at retail and at his family’s garment manufacturing business to develop the tools he needed to sooner or later create his own collection.

“Whatever I needed to do, I attempted to do it,” he said. That included becoming a part of the CFDA Fashion Incubator program, which supports the subsequent generation of fashion designers in Recent York City — “I take a number of pride in being a Recent York designer,” he said — and following the recommendation that he received to the letter.

That led to him to being nominated for the International Woolmark Prize in 2014 and his first runway show in the autumn of 2015, the identical 12 months he won the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award.

That acceptance has also shown up on the underside line. In 2022, the corporate had sales of $55 million.

The success of his women’s collection, which offers sophisticated, textural versions of classic silhouettes, has led him to make the leap into menswear.

“I’ve been making womenswear for 13 years, but I’ve been designing for other people,” he said at an exclusive preview of the boys’s collection in his SoHo store. “Now I’m finally making something for myself, my brothers and my dad.”

A preview look from Jonathan Simkhai men’s collection.

Lexie Moreland/WWD

He believes his menswear will fill a void available in the market for fashionable pieces that may stand the test of time. “My womenswear is subtly sexy, and with my men’s, I also wanted some sex appeal to it. Most things are either classic or street but that is sophisticated sexy in a contemporary way.”

He said his women’s line is intentionally broad in order that he can appeal to as many individuals as possible, but his inaugural men’s collection is smaller.

“I wanted to start out with what I might wear. It’s my perfect wardrobe. My womenswear is way greater but the boys’s is sufficiently big that if a man is available in, he should buy an entire wardrobe. So if you desire to seem like me, you’re all set,” he said with amusing.

In total, the road is “inspired by geometry and architectural shapes,” he said, adding, “Menswear is about the small print, the fit and the material.”

Amongst the important thing pieces within the launch collection is a double-breasted tech twill wool-blend suit in sculpted modern proportions that features the brand’s latest signature “S” monogram on the liner. “With men, there’s a more-intimate reference to the within their garments,” he said. That monogram is a component of a rebranding of the gathering to easily “Simkhai” that was unveiled as a part of the designer’s fall runway show in Recent York in February. The launch of the boys’s collection marks an extension of that rebranding strategy.

Other woven pieces include a denim jacquard campshirt with a version of the brand new logo because the pattern; an updated trenchcoat with hook and bar closures within the wool mix; a hybrid jacket and track pant in a poly twill mix with subtle articulation within the knit sleeves and pant and hidden sport-inspired trim; a poly satin honeycomb quilted bomber with cable knit sleeves; a rayon mix satin kimono in a relaxed silhouette, and classic cotton shirts in solid and yarn-dye stripes.

A preview look from Jonathan Simkhai men's collection.

A preview look from Jonathan Simkhai men’s collection.

Lexie Moreland/WWD

The knitwear includes wool-cashmere sweaters in cable knits, patchworked or blocked with contrast tipping, and other fine-gauge knits with stitch detailing in addition to a “spacedye” piece that mixed 4 striped and marled yarns in a half-milano stitch designed to create texture and enhance color.

There are two shirts that feature a print from visual artist George Harvey, whom he had worked with for his women’s collection: a digitalized palm print that represents Simkhai’s relocation from Recent York to Los Angeles, in addition to a more abstract pattern. “I worked with him for the spring women’s collection and the pieces sold out in two weeks,” he said. “So we did the print in a special colorway for men.” He also created one pair of men’s shoes for the launch.

The lads’s collection, which is able to retail from $300 for to $1,200, is being called pre-spring and can ship in October, but is being viewed as a “transitional wardrobe,” or “see now, buy now,” he said.  

He’s already interested by his next collection, which will probably be for spring and can include swimwear.

The lads’s line will probably be sold at the corporate’s retail stores in SoHo and Southampton, Recent York, and L.A. in addition to Dallas, which is able to open later this month in Highland Village. It can even be sold online, and he’ll consider wholesaling it on a limited basis. “We would like to construct a following and never put the cart before the horse.”

Beyond the boys’s launch, Simkhai said his goal is to proceed to grow his brand and he hopes to have 10 stores open by the top of the 12 months.

The business is totally self-funded, boasts a powerful online presence in addition to a wholesale business within the U.S. and overseas with retailers equivalent to Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Selfridges, Harrods and Net-a-porter.

“My growth has been very organic,” he said. “I spent all the Memorial Day weekend working on the Southampton store. It’s vital to me to make personal connections. But while you love what you do, it doesn’t feel like work.”

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