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5 Dec

Sol de Janeiro, Erborian Amongst Fastest-growing Skin Care Brands

L’Occitane International is soaring through the social media ranks.

In line with CreatorIQ, the Hong Kong-listed French skincare company owns the three fastest-growing skincare brands by earned media value — Sol de Janeiro, Erborian and L’Occitane en Provence — which have seen respective year-over-year EMV growth of 144 percent, 156 percent and 628 percent, respectively.

L’Occitane-owned Elemis has seen a 132 percent increase within the metric, earning it the number-three spot by total EMV within the skincare category — up five spots from 2022. The 4 brands’ EMV growth outpaces that of the skincare category at large, which grew 45 percent through the first half of 2023 versus the primary half of 2022.

“What L’Occitane does well is giving creators free rein to discuss their products and brand in a way that is exclusive to that creator’s voice and audience as an entire; there’s a superb degree of creator autonomy that comes into play,” said CreatorIQ’s director of content marketing Alexander Rawitz, noting influencer marketing momentum across the L’Occitane International portfolio began in 2021 and has ramped up since.

Largely driving the brands’ EMV growth has been consistent investments in creator retention and acquisition. Elemis, for instance, maintains a 141 percent annual retention rate, while concurrently having recruited 4,220 recent creators — who drove $44.3 million in EMV for the brand — over a 12-month period.

Powerhouse creators, or those with greater than 1 million followers, were essentially the most represented influencer tier across Erborian, Elemis and L’Occitane en Provence’s respective top 10 EMV-driving creator lists.

Olivia Yang (@olafflee on TikTok and Instagram) was the highest EMV earner for L’Occitane en Provence and the second-highest earner for Elemis. Nathalie Paris (@nathalieparis), Emma Leah (@byemmaleah) and Lena Bagrowska (@lenkalul) were other overlapping top earners for L’Occitane en Provence, Elemis and, in Leah’s case, Sol de Janeiro.

While TikTok outpaces Instagram in EMV share growth across all 4 brands — this yr TikTok drove 30 percent of their collective EMV versus just 16 percent in 2022 — Instagram still owns 65 percent of their collective EMV share.

“Instagram remains to be driving more EMV since it is a rather more known platform,” said Rawitz, noting that it’s not unusual for short-form TikTok videos which have been repurposed into Instagram Reels to fuel EMV on the platform. “Instagram provides a solid base; sort of a high floor, low ceiling for posts, where TikTok provides, obviously huge viral potential — but less of a guarantee that the content goes to go viral in the primary place.”

Still, TikTok has already overtaken Instagram when it comes to EMV share for a lot of beauty brands and Rawitz isn’t ruling out the potential of the same impending shift inside L’Occitane International’s portfolio.

In total, Elemis collected $88.9 million in EMV from January to October; Sol de Janeiro generated $76.8 million EMV — making it the sixth-largest skincare brand by the metric, up from number 21 last yr — while L’Occitane en Provence and Erborian garnered $45.8 million and $8.5 million EMV through the period.

L’Occitane International ranked number 21 on Beauty Inc’s list of the highest 100 beauty manufacturers in 2022, posting $2.15 billion in sales for the yr, a 17.3 percent increase versus the yr prior. After seeing strong sales growth through the first quarter of 2023, the brand reportedly briefly mulled a $4.2 billion buyout deal in July, but revealed in September that talks to take the corporate private had come to an in depth.

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